Automotive modification

New year upgrade

2012-01-04T17:19:00.000-08:00

As we know , proton CFE i-campro is about to launch. CFE is charge fuel efficiency and also continuous variable valve timing featured at the intake cam shaft. I have a chance to explore the new CFE i-campro engine. Seems like the cam shaft opening duration is greater than previous campro . The obvious change is the intake port that you can see the port size so much larger than before . I can the divider is so shallow and almost as shallow as my current head which already ported and polished. Another great part is the intake valve size also bigger than before as well. Not much but good enough to increase the Volumetric efficiency ( cylinder fill each time piston trust down to BDC ) . Damn part is i need to have new intake manifold since the intake port was same as CPS .

Come to crankshaft . I can feel the crankshaft mass weight heavier than before but i no chance to weight and compare with the current one. The crankshaft obviously change , you can notice 6 screw holes on the flywheel attach side. So that is another damn part that i need to get new flywheel that 6 holes and able to drive by current starter gear.

While waiting for my CP piston to be arrived . I shall proceed to port and polish the head first .

More to update after January

Auto Speed Quest Garage

2011-10-17T18:41:00.000-07:00

Hi Guys ,

Auto Speed Quest is a new garage that equipped with Dynojet dyno machine located at Jalan Bukit kemuning near to Giant . Pls visit below link for more detail https://www.facebook.com/pages/auto-speed-quest/254859987888496 . Adaptronic tuning and installation available there. Contact Aman Farris

0178791136

Used haltech P500 for sale

2011-10-04T04:48:00.000-07:00

Guys ,

Just to help a friend who needs cash urgently ..... Used about a year and still good in condition . Offer price RM2000 . Text me if you interested ... 012-4095795

e420d Evo 3 plug & play

2011-08-31T00:50:00.000-07:00

2 sets of EVO 3 plug & play e420d is ready . With tuned map that can cater 1.5 bar with stock injector 510cc. 10 hp was up with slight up advance ignition timing while still with air flow sensor fitted . And another 20 hp up after air flow sensor removed. If further touch up estimate another 10 hp possible to obtain with not question. So i can say 40 hp easily to gain with e420d + plug and play loom

Offered price : RM 4500 Pls call me 012-4095795 for more detail

Selamat hari raya to all muslim fellow

2011-08-29T20:54:00.000-07:00

Here i would like to wish all muslim fellows Selamat hari raya and a nice holiday to non-muslim fellow.

ECUDATASCAN

2011-08-23T02:59:00.000-07:00

ECUDATASCAN connected with adaptronic e420d
The picture shown 9 channels which represented 9 types of gauge !!
You can configure to show any information whichever shown on adaptronic e420d WARI gauge.

Came with custom window CE 5.0
Compatible with any GPS interface
MP3 & MP4 ( DIVX ) player
Datalogger ( 2G sd card required )
OBDII compatible ( separate com cable needed )
Diagnostic & trouble code erase for OEM ecu

Initial offer price RM2800 ( still cheaper if compare to have 9 types of gauge installed )

ECUdatascan LCD monitor Received

2011-08-09T19:16:00.000-07:00

Received yesterday and going connect to e420d . Will post some screenshoot here later

ECUdatascan LCD monitor

2011-07-04T01:54:00.000-07:00

To all adaptronic user ,

I would like to introduce to ECUdatascan LCD monitor that can link with e420c/e420d/440 to display all data . Water temp , air temp , boost , Throttle movement , rpm , speed , A/F ratio and a lot more .... Initial offer price is about RM1500.00 ++ Very nice !! I am about to get one , more update after tested

ECUDATASCAN

From ECUDATASCAN

By communicating with the computers in your vehicle, you can view and log a whole range of engine and transmission related data, as well as being able to log and clear fault codes, run performance tests (such as 0-100km/h, 0-60mph, 1/4 mile). Coupled with the built-in GPS receiver, you can also log engine statistics and GPS data, and view it later on Google Earth. The ECUDatascan also has an included music and video player, the ability to run GPS satellite navigation software, and much. much more.

Coil on Plug on campro

2011-05-31T11:13:00.001-07:00

Finally COP is on my campro engine ... Working and going to test the different by tomorrow morning

New adaptronic e420d (OPEN TO ALL COUNTRIES NOT LONGER LIMITED TO MLY )

2011-05-08T21:41:00.000-07:00

All new adaptronic e420d already available and open to order from now . Pls post question here if you have question about all new e420d .

A FULL standalone ecu that selling in fair price and affordable by malaysian .

Suggested price for ECU only is RM3300 . May contact me for more detail .

Features

"3D" Fuel and Ignition maps (as on any sophisticated aftermarket ECU)
Configurable ignition and injection outputs to suit different applications
Inputs for water temperature, air temperature, auxiliary temperature (eg turbo), external Manifold Air Pressure sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, knock sensor, EGO (exhaust gas oxygen)
Internal MAP sensor suitable for up to 40 psi of boost
Outputs for four injector groups - allows full sequential injection up to 4-cylinders, or semi-sequential injection up to 8- cylinders
Outputs for four igniter groups - allows full sequential spark up to four cylinders and wasted spark systems up to 8-cylinders, or any conventional distributor systems
Eight configurable auxiliary outputs - four of which are configurable as high current outputs, three of which are PWM capable
Eight configurable digital inputs
Numerous diagnostic LEDs, including LEDs to indicate trigger input detection and injector/ignition outputs
3.5mm headphone jack for listening to knock
PC interface via USB cable
Field upgradeable firmware
Datalogging via 'WARI' PC software
Free support by forum, email and phone
12 month 'return to base' warranty

Narrow-band (factory EGO sensor) closed loop fuel control
High current programmable outputs - allows direct drive of solenoid valves for boost control, air bypass etc
Special function programmable outputs - allows control of anti-pollution purge valves, air conditioners etc
Open-loop and closed-loop idle bypass control - allows configuration of increased idle bypass amount based on low battery, electrical load, air conditioner, as well as correction based on RPM, optional ignition timing control for idle speed regulation
Programmable for many different crank/cam angle sensor waveforms
Open-loop and closed-loop boost control
Dual closed-loop variable valve timing (VVT) channels
Traction control and launch control

New high impedance 500 cc injector

2011-05-04T00:29:00.000-07:00

Another new high impedance 500cc injector is available for campro BOT and GSR turbo terbalik . Selling price is RM600 for 4 pieces. Same with 12 nozzle holes for better atomization and good combustion.

New high impedance 560 cc injector

2011-03-01T07:32:00.001-08:00

New 560 cc high impedance injector RM600 for 4 pcs . Good for turbo engine and BOT . Latest technology with 12 via holes allow better atomization and improve combustion efficiency .

Coil on plug with built in ignitor that suit for campro

2011-03-01T06:37:00.000-08:00

Hi guys ,

Keep you all long wait. Below is the picture of COP that i mentioned . I haven't got the wiring done and the plate to hold the COP in place. Just to show how the placement of the COP .

ADAPTRONIC E420C ON CAMPRO

2010-11-06T17:26:00.000-07:00

All ,

I believe majority of car enthusiast in malaysia not even heard this aftermarket ecu. Even myself as well . I won't know this ecu until adaptronic malaysia distributor told me last few mths. So what make the distributor to recommend me this ecu ? First of first , i was surprised with their offer price to me. The offered price was surprisingly lower than haltech P500 . Well , that just a part that interesting but i can not accept this ecu until i access the function and capability. Got the interface of adaptronic , i access the interface page by page ... I am speechless , the function was about same as p1000 . Just some enhancement not there but more than enough to remove stock ecu if no airbag and CAN BUS speedo meter . Then i totally accept this ecu . but then i still wonder this ecu work on campro engine. I failed to make it work at first . After adaptronic engineer educated me about setting . Finally i got the very first one adaptronic installed at Neo CPS . The neo CPS become very responsive at the throttle and overall . One thing very amaze with e420c is the transient throttle that featured with little advance timing to happen when you got the throttle open from static. That boost the response. Beside that close loop fuel trim also work for fuel economic when cruising. CPS switching sound become very obvious !!

If for those BOT , you can control boost by speed. No issue to upgrade big cc injector . No rich at idling !!

So my conclusion ADAPTRONIC E420C is affordable and good to use on campro engine .

Is piggyback good for BOT proejct that exceed 100% of stock horsepower ?

2010-10-31T09:56:00.000-07:00

Regard above question . I will say piggyback no longer a right fuel management if power produced after BOT exceed stock power another 100% !! Let say stock 120 - 130 bhp . And you got you ride BOT and boost 1 bar . With that boosted pressure , the rated power should be around 260 - 280 bhp. Is 100% improvement over stock power. My personal opinion, piggyback is good if power make not exceed 50% over stock power. If more than a basic standalone is better than that. I am being tuned more than 10 campro BOT . Majority is xenon's customer ride . Only one BOT campro was using haltech sprint 500. The rest is either haltech interceptor and unichip . The one with haltech sprint 500 is really impressive with response . TD04HL used in this Campro BOT. I can find the difference if compare those campro BOT with TD04HL and use piggyback as fuel management. Overall performance is better !! So my advice is looking for right fuel management if you decided to boost above 0.5 bar . Nowaday basic standalone like haltech sprint 500 & adaptronic e420 is affordable. You just need to spend another RM800 for better performance !! I know is a pain to pour so much at once. But you will even pain upgrade from piggyback to standalone !! Many of them just thinking standalone is too much , i am totally not agree. Standalone is just nice and not too much. When you decided for BOT , you should make a brilliant choice on fuel management.

Some update on the aftermarket intake manifold

2010-09-12T17:58:00.001-07:00

NA short ram intake manifold for campro is available . Offer price RM1200

Below is some photo of my current engine bay

Campro LOW compression piston and rod by ROSS

2010-08-15T20:13:00.000-07:00

ALL ,

Lets see how the quality of ROSS campro low compression and forged piston.

RM2600 for 4 pcs

Campro turbo manifold

2010-08-11T09:19:00.000-07:00

Guys ,

Good news !!! First of the first campro turbo intake manifold will be installed in my ride this coming friday.

Will make a dyno comparison before and after.

Initial offer cost will be RM1400 . The intake manifold was designed to suit EVO 4 and above throttle body.

80% finished .

Inner view

Upgrade turbo unit part V

2010-07-16T08:57:00.000-07:00

sorry too busy to update this post. Finally turbo installed . Done all the piping and exhaust as well.
Owner can smile now .

Upgrade turbo unit part IV

2010-07-11T10:10:00.000-07:00

Finally done the cylinder head assembly . Dual layer radiator installed as well . Now awaiting the header to be modified and the engine ready to fire after turbo installed.

Upgrade turbo unit part III

2010-07-03T01:41:00.001-07:00

Some update

1) Cylinder head surface touch up done . Awaiting valve seal change and grind valve
2) Extra fan installed .

Upgrade turbo unit part II

2010-07-02T03:42:00.000-07:00

Yesterday got the cylinder head removed , and sent to surface touch up this morning. I have snapped some photos of the cylinder head and block.

After use fine sand paper polish

Cleaned with scrapper and brush

Before clean

Upgrade turbo unit

2010-07-01T02:54:00.000-07:00

Hi all ,

Quite a long time never post . Quite busy this few weeks , travel to kl every weekend to help my friend's GSR conversion . Damn that seller didn't give complete , many things missing and irresponsible. I really spend hard time to connect all the wiring for my friend . Pity him , alternator kong then air con compressor blown .... Pay RM10K for the stupid GSR . End up still need to top money for those missing parts .... For those who wish to transplant , pls take this lesson . Don't ever buy engine lantai or engine that dismantle from third party's car . Buy half cut will be better , don't greedy with their aftermarket setup.

Ok , back to upgrade turbo unit story . Got a gen 2 which already BOT. This BOT gen 2 send to northern garage for power upgrade and doing some overhaul. Below is the picture turbo unit before and after :p ..... Will update more later

Used Gen 2 manual gearbox complete set for sell

2010-06-19T02:57:00.000-07:00

Used gen 2 manual gearbox complete set for sell.
Offer price Rm1900
clutch pad still 70% left
New secondary clutch pump

suit to gen 2 , waja and satri neo . The gearbox mounting will give base on model . Gen 2 and waja share same gearbox mounting . Satria neo needs different mounting.

Call or text me .... 012-4095795

latest dyno chart with haltech platinum 1000

2010-06-18T02:52:00.000-07:00

Sorry for took so long to update the dyno chart.

Toque drop 12nm if compare to last dyno
Toque drop after i put 1.3mm gasket. That is common once you low down the compression ratio.

Haltech PS1000 installed !!

2010-05-14T10:05:00.001-07:00

Hi all ,

Finally haltech Ps1000 in my campro turbo already . Took 2 days to wire up and do some modification. Install external igniter and then install 510cc injectors . Currently tune on the road to get partial throttle map done first. Got snapped some photos , picture to show how messy the wiring :P . I don't have to convert drive by wire become drive by cable. I mean the throttle control . Haha ... Drive by wire work well , even i had the injector and ignition system removed and use haltech to control ... But only i can't get rid was the CEL :P ... Well that CEL doesn't matter for me ... As long engine can run , air cond ok and idling ok .... Check engine light forget about it ..... :P

Hopefully i got time to out on dyno and run a result .
Tomorrow will be busy to install PS500 on a V-tec B20B

Haltech PS500 on 4G93 and PS1000 on EVo 8

2010-04-30T00:10:00.001-07:00

Hi ,

Just a small update. Recently just tune a 4G93 that had PS500 . Wiring done by owner and i just help the owner do those setting. And just done 90% tuning . Below is the result. The best part is this car was featured with 4 throttles from toyota. :)

And also an evo 8 with borg warner S366 turbo unit . Boosted 30 psi or 2 bar plus. Installed haltech PS 1000 and tuned done by myself. Last dyno 680 hp at ST wangan .

Innovate LC-1 wide band system

2010-04-16T21:45:00.000-07:00

Recently got the innovate LC-1 wide band system installed . Will this LC-1 as AFR ( Air fuel ratio ) feedback to haltech platinum sport 1000. Haltech PS1000 needs the wide band sensor signal run the close loop system. Other than that i also have a AFR gauge installed. The gauge feeds analogue signal from LC-1. You can monitor the AFR live !!!

Call me or text for LC-1 wide band system ( Came with analogue gauge ) for RM990 only.

Haltech platinum sport 1000 installed !!

2010-04-03T09:50:00.000-07:00

Hi all ,

Sorry for no post quite some time. I am being busy with haltech platinum sport 1000 installation on an evo 8. Some much of problems arise during installation. Took me so many days to resolve the problem. All main wiring fixed , cranking engine won't start. Oh god ... What i am missing ... Got base map , but still can not start ... I have nearly 5 batteries dead and recharge .. Until today i manage to start the engine .... very happy when hearing engine vrooommmmmm .... Finally the engine back to live , and going to fix other wiring tomorrow .. Shall update some photos of the installation process ...

Finished tune campro turbo from IPOH

2010-03-20T20:54:00.000-07:00

Had been busy a while . NO time to make any post here. Recently busy to get a campro turbo tune up . Many things need to add on even the kit had done at KL. This car was belongs to an owner from Ipoh. Using TD04HL turbo unit which took out from a GSR turbo auto . A small turbo that good for auto ride but not for manual tranny.

Installed unichip Q+ & turbo module . Running an external 510cc injector. Boosting at 0.5 bar. Final 167 bhp & torque 220 NM . Just a mild improvement over the stock car. Suppose 190 bhp if based on my ride spec last dyno result.

This car hasn't change the exhaust system . Still maintain at stock exhaust pipe diameter which was 1.6" in diameter. foresee that this car still got potential to up some horsie if correct exhaust system fit in.

Good side is this car already dump in 3mm thick gasket LOL !!! .... Damn safe too boost if cooling system upgraded to large radiator and twin fans .

Will update more about this car when exhaust system done ......

And here also need to apologize let some of you keep waiting for my haltech PS1000 result. Gonna get ti done soon ..... :P

2010-02-28T00:05:00.000-08:00

Moroso Breather Tank
Used condition
All aluminum and lightweight
Hand-operated drain cock facilitates tank cleaning
Includes filtered breather that traps oil while allowing air to escape freely
Mounting clamp is included

Offer price RM150

Call me for this item ... 012-4095795 ( kevin )

New stuffs for my gen 2

2010-02-27T21:57:00.000-08:00

Recently i found my seat was damn dirty and ugly ( All the while the seat was in bad condition not recently LOL ) . Yesterday bought a seat called Bride low max :P .... I like this seat so much . Unfortunately last one , i can't get pair. Nevermind get another one later .

And then i also removed my unichip and replace with haltech Platinum sport 1000 . Now start to do installation.

Ah ... My exhaust also down grade ... No more big muffler at the back there. Purely a tip :P

Used campro engine open for sale

2010-02-17T07:31:00.000-08:00

Guys ,

I got complete set of campro engine open for sale at RM5500 . Full wiring ( ecu , engine harness and ecu ) , manual transmission, engine ( full ) and registered ( previous owner done endorsement ) . Text or call me for inquiry. 012-4095795.

HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR !! 恭喜恭喜 , 新年万万岁 !!

2010-02-12T05:13:00.000-08:00

Wish all chinese reader ,

HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR .....

Campro BOT package ( For public reference )

2010-02-04T10:33:00.000-08:00

Management ( install + tune + dyno )
Unichip Q+ plus turbo module = Rm2600
Haltech sprint 500 = RM3600
Haltech sport 1000 = RM5600

Turbo unit
New GT2510 ( hyrid) = Rm1500

Wastegate
0.5 bar wastegate = Rm300

Turbo exhaust header ( custom )
New turbo header ( 2mm thick s/steel pipe ) Rm1200

Intercooler piping
S/steel piping 2" ( mandrel bent ) RM500
Welding labour charge Rm200
Hose joint 2" and 2.5" (RM50 per pieces) ( 5 pcs used ) = RM250
Super Hose clip S/steel ( bigger than normal)= RM12 x 20 = Rm240

Oil feed and drain
Steel braided hose for oil feed=RM100
Fitting= RM30
Oil sump oil drain modification = RM300 ( Aluminium welding and adaptor )
Oil drain pipe plus bracket = RM100

Injectors
injector Evo = Rm80 per piece ( For extra injector setup )
External Injector holder = RM90

Exhaust piping
Down pipe 2.5" pipe = RM200
O2 sensor flange = RM50

Intercooler
Intercooler 10" x 7" x 2" = RM450

Thicker Head Gasket 1 - 1.5mm Custom
1mm - RM450
1.5mm - RM550
2 set of original gasket needed - RM160
Labour charge = RM300-RM500 ( remove head , clean , surface touch up and install )

DUAL layer radiator (NEW) RM500

Haltech platinum series

2010-01-09T00:50:00.000-08:00

Recently i get to know haltech got new series released. May be i am the one late to know ... This series launched quite some time already. Must a friend that seeking for my help to setup haltech platinum sprint 500. I find that haltech new interface quite user friendly , may be it user friendly if you really read the manual and you got some knowledge of car sensors and operation. I have used my own laktop help him to set up the haltech ecu. Dam it ! my laktop behave again. Twice my laktop battery dead when i try to upload the setting. At last i just let him know all setting in writting. And he manages to get the car back to life. After get in touch with haltech platinum series , i starting fall in it. I am looking to get haltech platinum sport 1000. Not that soon , may be February later.

I have done market survey on 500 and 1000

At sunway .... The sole dealer was offered 500 at RM4000++ and 1000 at RM6000++
That just ecu alone !!!

PLATINUM SPORT 1000

PLATINUM SPRINT 500

latest photo of my turbo setup

2009-12-09T02:03:00.000-08:00

Guys ,

Long time no post. Last night took a few photo of my turbo setup. You may find evo 4 radiator fan had been replaced my original radiator. And the evo radiator fan can help to save some space that allow to reroute the intercooler piping. And i also build a heat resist cover for the turbo unit to prevent heat splashing.

EVO 4 radiator fan

Campro/4G18 Manual Gear box complete set

2009-11-03T14:17:00.000-08:00

Guys,

Another set of Campro/4G18 Manual Gear box complete set open for sale. Offer price at RM1700. No trade in and no discount. Gear BOx good in condition. Pls contact me 012-4095795 for more detail.

To blink4blog

2009-08-09T03:09:00.000-07:00

"i just did my EVO3 brakes upgrades too, the market price is RM500-600 depends on condition, RM400 wait another few years might properly got it, plenty of gen2 on the street man"

Thanks for your comment.

No doubt the market price is RM500-600 as i found at the web.
But i have found one guy bought at price RM400 from an advertiser at sham alam recently.
It is not to say impossible to get that price , very depend you deal will 2nd "hand" or the primary source.
Regardless plenty of gen 2 on the road , how many of them will upgrade ?
Anyway i will try to find source that can offer as low as rm400 ...

Upgrade brake system

2009-08-08T03:10:00.000-07:00

Time to upgrade my gen 2 front braking system. These days really scare to accelerate with full throttle , my braking system really take time to stop in very short distance. Can you all believe i had brake until my new Fr brake disc turn into red color and brake pad burnt until smoke came out ? I used to have fun ride or togue with a group of friends. WOT accelerate at hill winding road , frequent braking . Braking system begin to fade and can not stop down the car even hard press. Of course i can not hard press until jam brake , that very dangerous during cornering. I have done some research on replacement braking system which can upgrade braking power. Just bought an evo 3 servo pump and still looking for evo 3 fr braking system. Why i choose evo 3 braking system ? Why not evo 4 :-P ? Evo 3 and evo 4 are the same , just the knuckle lug count different . 4 and 5 lugs. since evo 3 lug pcd is 114.3 , just nice for gen 2. If bought together with knuckle , no need any special make mount brake. Just remove exist knukle and plug on the whole set of evo 3 brake kit !! ... Then can enjoy the ultimate braking power for gen 2 :P ... Found some offers from selangor ..

Quite pricy for used item .. Offered price RM600++ . Still looking for better offer ..

Anyone can offer me the evo 3 FRont brake kit at RM400 ... Pls call / text me with this number 012-4095795

Turbo comparison

2009-07-18T21:19:00.000-07:00

Let why i recommended GT2510 rather use used turbo as listed at below.

We should understand every turbo build for different application. Mitsubishi engine considered short stroke engine which the bore size is 80mm and above . Stroke is short if compare to campro. Campro bore size is 76mm and stroke 88mm , this is long stroke engine . If apply turbo unit listed at below , you will experience boost kick in too early at below 2000 rpm. The power saturated after 4000 rpm. The turbine A/R has blocked the exhaust from flow fast. Means choking. Power drop at high rpm !!

Mitsubishi

Garret

Campro BOT kit package

2009-07-17T23:48:00.000-07:00

Hi guys,

Many post up a question about how much my BOT kit cost . Alright , here i will list out all item cost and labour charge .

Unichip Q+ plus turbo module = Rm2600
New GT2510 ( hyrid) = Rm1500
0.5 bar wastegate = Rm300
New turbo header ( 2mm thick s/steel pipe ) Rm1200
S/steel piping 2" ( mandrel bent ) RM500
Welding labour charge Rm200
Steel braided hose for oil feed RM100
Oil sump oil drain modification = RM300 ( Aluminium welding and adaptor )
Oil drain pipe plus bracket = RM100
Hose joint 2" and 2.5" (RM50 per pieces) ( 5 pcs used ) = RM250
Super Hose clip S/steel ( bigger than normal)= RM12 x 20 = Rm240
injector Evo = Rm80
External Injector holder = RM90
Down pipe 2.5" pipe = RM200
O2 sensor flange = RM50
Labour charge = RM300
Intercooler 10" x 7" x 2" = RM450

TOtal - RM8460 !!

Accessories:-
Blow off ( china made ) = various type RM300

So guy justify yourselves .... Not many ppl can breakdown as what i have done here ...

some info about turbo

2009-07-10T00:46:00.000-07:00

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/tmodels.html

Campro manual gearbox for sale

2009-07-10T00:32:00.000-07:00

Hi guys ,

I got a set of campro manual gearbox kit for sale. The kit including clucth pedal , brake pedal, primary clutch pump ( firewall) , gearshift console , gearbox mounting , new gear FF & RR mounting bracket ( If neo need only RR ) , 8.5 inches clutch set , 8" flywheel and clutch braided hose. Offer price RM2200 (REVISED) . Suitable for gen 2 , waja ( 4g18 & campro ) , pesona and neo.

Reach me with this number 012-4095795 kevin

Hi guys ,

I got a set of campro manual gearbox kit for sale. The kit including clucth pedal , brake pedal, primary clutch pump ( firewall) , gearshift console , gearbox mounting , new gear FF & RR mounting bracket ( If neo need only RR ) , 8.5 inches clutch set , 8" flywheel and clutch braided hose. Offer price RM2500 . Reach me with this 012-4095795.

Some photo of my upgrade

2009-07-10T00:26:00.000-07:00

Hi all , So long never update anything . Today update some of add on stuff . I have found the turbo piping very hot when riding during day time. So i decide to wrap all the piping which inside engine bay with thermal wrap. And i also add on HKS blow off . I got the blow off modified and no such sharp blow off sound . Sound very gentle ... :) :)

Hi all , So long never update anything . Today update some of add on stuff . I have found the turbo piping very hot when riding during day time. So i decide to wrap all the piping which inside engine bay with thermal wrap. And i also add on HKS blow off . I got the blow off modified and no such sharp blow off sound . Sound very gentle ... :) :)

My campro turbo dyno chart

2009-05-03T01:47:00.001-07:00

Hi guys ... just finish dyno tune my campro turbo ... below is dyno figure based on engine output ..

new update !!

2009-05-02T23:26:00.000-07:00

hi guys .... new photo update .. got the rusty welded line polished .... Looks good :P

Intercooler FIxed !!

2009-05-01T23:07:00.000-07:00

Hi guys , Finally got my intercooler fixed. Took one day work to finish the piping. Must thanks to northern garage buddy helps me weld those piping joint. And myself in charge cut and make pipe routing. All CNC mandrel bend stainless steel. Below is some photo of the setup ....

My turbocharge system

2009-04-22T02:52:00.000-07:00

Hi guys ,

Sorry for let you all waiting for so long. I just finish 80% of my turbocharge system . Haven't tune after BOT. I manage to drive my car below 0.1 bar , can feel that engine very responsive. I like the feel. Currently running without intercooler , going to fix on the piping very soon. Here i also post some picture of my setup .....

New turbo unit for SR20DET

2009-03-06T22:49:00.000-08:00

Same compressor housing but different turbine housing .... AR.86 and AR.47

My mini intercooler

2009-02-21T00:24:00.000-08:00

Hi guys ,

Quite some time i never update my turbo project status . Today i proudly to present my mini intercooler 10" X 7" .... Don't tell me that it too small for 1.6 turbo ... :P :P .. More than enough for low boost 0.6 bars.

My decent exhaust system :P :P 2.2" pipe diameter and straight all the way from front .

Campro P&P head available for sale

2009-01-31T19:07:00.000-08:00

Hi guys ,

Anyone who interested to buy P&P head , pls contact me for detail . I got one ready P&P head open for sale . Who stay in penang island can drop by northern garage at sg ara for a view . I left that head there . All the oil seals are new . Offer price at Rm1500. Price negotiatable

Campro 1.3 piston head FOR SALE

2008-12-31T06:47:00.000-08:00

Hi guys ,

Anyone insterested to upgrade currect 1.6liters campro to high compression 1.6 liters campro ? Here got 4 pcs of 1.3 liters camproUSED piston head which can upgrade your 1.6 campro becomes high compression from 10:1 to 13:1 and above . Offer price at RM200 for 4 pcs . This piston head no valve clearance and suitable for those who never think of upgrade cam duration ( high cam) . If you got intention to upgrade cam shaft to high cam , you need to have valve clearance on top of the 1.3 piston. The valve clrearance job need to pay another RM200 .

USED 1.3 piston with valve clearance = Rm400
USED 1.3 piston without valve clearance = Rm200

New 1.3 piston = R100 for one pc . 4 pcs will RM400 . You save RM200 for buy USED piston .
Good in condition .

Below is the picture of the 1.3 piston that i mentioned .

This 1.3 piston . Looks dirty . Don't worry , i got them washed and became shining . This picture took after dismantled from engine .

1.6 piston Original piston

Positioning my turbo

2008-12-31T06:24:00.000-08:00

Hi guys , i am back . This time i will show you how i am positioning my turbo unit . Just a rod and steel wire will do . I got the turbo position and then i put on flange of extractor and turbo exhaust flange . Using another 2 steel rods weld on both flange to hold it in position and then remove it . Later the model will go pipe assembly . :P

ELECTRONIC BOOSTER FOR DRIVE BY WIRE THROTTLE BODY

2008-12-05T01:47:00.000-08:00

HI guys , proudly to present electronic booster for campro series . Feel tired with lag ? Booster is the stuff to change the entire part throttle respond which you can't experience with original DBW .

Below is the chart of the Throttle opening angle vs accelerator traveling angle . Comparison within original and after booster installed

Lastest dyno result for another 2 gen 2

2008-11-03T02:06:00.000-08:00

Gen 2 with high cam
everco s-flow muffler
everco header
open pod
result after unichip

Gen 2 with mild cam
straight flow muffler
powerzone header
slightly over bore
BMC type air intake

Standard campro with High cam plus unichip

2008-10-25T21:11:00.000-07:00

Before and after

Dyno tune preparation

:P !53 bhp campro born !!

2008-10-25T21:05:00.001-07:00

Just an update . Another 153bhp campro born . Congratulation to our young dragster :P

Wish to post your dyno chart here . Let me know

My turbo fitting

2008-10-18T09:30:00.000-07:00

Take such long time to finish my turbo . I haven't finish it yet . Just got my turbo fitting for engine oil inlet , water inlet and outlet . Soon will remove oil sump to make fitting for oil drain . Below is picture of fitting for my turbo . Thanks lip teik from hydraulic shop in kepala batas penang . With his help , i can get those nice fitting easily . No need any hassle modification .

Broken Hppc ( quadcore plug cable )

2008-10-11T02:31:00.000-07:00

Just to share a story about infamous hppc or quadcore 10mm .

Got a friend of mine had changed to quadcore 10mm plug cable and used it for 4 mths . This morning he is warming engine and do some checking on his car . Suddenly his campro engine gives some weird response and abnormal vibration. Then he suspects spark plug give way , so he is pulling out all the plug cable . Pull out 1st and 2nd cable ok , he get shocks when come to 3rd cable . The plug boot is coming out but the spark plug clip of the cable remain clipped on the spark plug terminal . Then he take out the spark plug and he found that the cable already broken and torn into 2 parts . Dismantle the clip and found that core already torn into 2 part as well and corroded as well. The clip stopper also got burn mark on it .

Below is the picture of broken wire :-

Stopper got burn mark due to high voltage spark .

Core is broken !!

Insulator color also different !!

Gen 2 MT with unichip

2008-10-09T03:51:00.000-07:00

I just have finished tuning a gen 2 with unichip . This gen 2 very amaze . Initial dyno without unichip can get 133 bhp already !! . After tuned , this gen 2 gained horsepower 143 bhp and torque 183nm . Unbelievable !! We can't believe the result ... Run 3 times , still get same result .

Below is modification has been done .

1) everco header
2) 2 inche piping
3) one mid box
4) everco s-flow muffler
5) Matspeed camshaft
6) Open pod setup
7) adjustable cam pulley ( not much offset )
8) Bored throttle body ( not enlarge but tapered inner )

2008-10-07T04:41:00.000-07:00

For campro ecu , you can advance the ingition timing even below 2k rpm . Just you can't over advance and cause knocking . Campro got knock sensor attached at the block . Any knocking occur , ecu will get know knocking level thru knock sensor and retard timing . If over advance timing with piggyback , ecu will retard the ignition until it limit. Up to that , engine will lose power . And that will be just like you all called readapt , retune and overwrite . Ecu not that smart to over write piggyback if no engine faulty cause by the overtune with piggyback . Why campro engine can feel heavy during day time and feel power during nite time ... During day time , air temperature is higher than night time . Air temperature can be measured with campro map sensor . If air temperature in intake manifold rising , ecu will retard timing to prevent knocking . Because hot air will cause the mixture to burn too fast ( explosion ) before piston travel more than 40 degree before TDC . If mixture ignite too early with hot air , mixture will burn very fast and become a huge pressure which also called as explosion . Hence the piston will knock with explosion ... That is so called knocking . If want to have timing advance safe and no knocking happen during day time . A very good cool air intake needed to reduce air temperature . Conseal airbox with open pod if the best ... Not those open pod that expose to open air . This kind of setup sure cause ecu to retard timing during day time driving .

Setting the ignition timing

2008-09-17T05:05:00.000-07:00

"Timing advance" refers to the number of degrees before top dead center (BTDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber during the compression stroke. "Timing retard" refers to the number of degrees that ignition is delayed after top dead center. In a classic ignition system with breaker points, the basic timing can be set statically using a test light or dynamically using a timing light.

Timing advance is required because it takes time to burn the air-fuel mixture. Igniting the mixture before the piston reaches top dead center (TDC) will allow the mixture to fully burn soon after the piston reaches TDC. If the air-fuel mixture is ignited at the correct time, maximum pressure in the cylinder will occur sometime after the piston reaches TDC allowing the ignited mixture to push the piston down the cylinder with the greatest force. Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burnt is about 20 degrees ATDC. This will utilize the engine's power producing potential. If the ignition spark occurs at a position that is too advanced relative to piston position, the rapidly expanding air-fuel mixture can actually push against the piston causing detonation and lost power. If the spark occurs too retarded relative to the piston position, maximum cylinder pressure will occur after the piston is already traveling too far down the cylinder. This results in lost power, high emissions, and unburned fuel.

The ignition timing will need to become increasingly advanced (relative to TDC) as the engine speed increases so that the air-fuel mixture has the correct amount of time to fully burn. Another reason for advancing the timing is because as the engine speed increases, fuel consumption increases. Since more fuel is present in the cylinder, the time required to fully burn the air-fuel mixture will be longer. Poor volumetric efficiency at lower engine speeds also requires increased advancement of ignition timing. The correct timing advance for a given engine speed will allow for maximum cylinder pressure to be achieved at the correct crankshaft angular position. When setting the timing for an automobile engine, the factory timing setting can usually be found on a sticker in the engine bay.

CAMPRO CPS :P

2008-09-14T03:17:00.000-07:00

Hi guys , lets have a look . CPS is there , but only at intake . Exhaust just like normal , nothing much different with current . Also take a look on cps cam lobe set . High cam lift just slightly high that normal . Low cam .. of course lower than current . Why no cam switching at exhaust ? :P :P I will make my own later . Both intake and exhaust with CPS !! Dreaming though ....

CAMPRO 1.6 HIGH COMPRESSION ENGINE

2008-09-08T04:05:00.000-07:00

Guys , Is time for me to start the 1.6 high compression engine . Brand new crankshaft , crank bearing , con rod and some other acc . Rebore to 77mm . Next week will publish all the parts picture .

Another message for those who want to relocate battery . Make you you got a cable as ground as well . Don't just hook up battery negative terminal to chassis . That will cause your ECU poor in performance due to unbalance current flow and noise .

pressure differential _ by turbo rides

2008-08-12T03:52:00.001-07:00

Pressure Differential

Unlike a supercharger that is driven directly form the crankshaft, a turbo is driven by exhaust gas velocity. Turbochargers are an exhaust restriction (which raises the exhaust gas pressure), but since they use energy that would otherwise be wasted, they are much more efficient than a belt driven supercharger. Normally when the exhaust valve opens, there is still useable pressure in the cylinder that needs to be dumped so it will not resist the piston trying to go back up the bore. That pressure makes high exhaust gas velocity. With a turbocharged engine, this is the energy that is used to spin the turbine.

With a well matched turbo / engine combo, boost pressure should be higher than exhaust gas pressure at the low side of the power band (near peak torque). As the engine nears peak hp, the pressure differential will get nearer 1:1. At some point the pressures in the intake and exhaust will be equal then crossover making the exhaust a higher pressure than the intake. At peak hp there will usually be more exhaust gas pressure than boost pressure. The ultimate goal is to have as little exhaust backpressure possible for the desired boost.

If the turbocharger is matched well to the engine combination, the camshaft selection will not need to be much different than that of a supercharged engine. The problem is that most factory turbo engines have turbo's that are sized too small and will usually have more back pressure than boost pressure over much of the useable power band. Car manufactures do this in an attempt to reduce turbo lag. When a turbocharger is too small, it will be a bigger restriction in the exhaust, causing more back pressure. A big mistake of turbo owners is to crank the boost up as high as they can thinking they are going faster, but in reality, chances are that they are just killing the efficiency of the turbo and most gains are lost. If you want to run higher boost levels and back pressure is a problem, cam timing can be altered to give respectable power increases for much cheaper than a new turbocharger. Before you go increasing boost and changing cams, remember that the oxygen content into the engine will increase power, not boost pressure. A good flowing head with a good intercooler can make a lot of power without high boost. You may not need more boost to get the power you want.

Valve Overlap

If you're one of many factory turbo car owners with a turbo sized too small, there will be higher exhaust pressure than intake. You should see that if both valves are open at the same time, the flow would reverse. Any valve overlap is a no-no if you're looking for higher boost with a restrictive turbine housing. The exhaust valve will usually close very close to TDC, but there is will still be more pressure on the cylinder than in the intake. You must allow the piston to travel down the bore until the pressure is equalized. If the cylinder pressure is lower than the intake manifold pressure, no reverse flow will take place. This means that the intake valve needs to open 20-35Â° ATDC, depending on the amount of boost you're using. Most street turbo's will work well when the valve opens close to 20Â° ATDC, only when boost gets near 30 psi will you need to delay it as much as 35Â° ATDC. In low boost applications (under 15 psi or so), opening the valve closer to TDC and maybe keeping the exhaust valve open a little after TDC is a compromise for better throttle response before the boost comes on. As you increase boost, you will need to delay the opening of the intake valve to avoid reversion. You want the intake valve to open as soon as possible, in an ideal situation, the intake valve should open when the pressure in the cylinder is equal to boost pressure. This can cause a little confusion with cam overlap. If the exhaust valve closes before the intake opens, the overlap will be considered negative. If the exhaust valve closed at TDC and the intake opened at 20Â° ATDC there would be -20Â° of overlap. In this type situation, pumping losses are quite large, although the turbo will still use less power than a crank driven supercharger.

If you have a well matched turbo for the engine and application, it is a different deal altogether. A well matched turbine housing on the turbo will usually work well with cams with a lobe separation in the 112-114Â° area. If there is more pressure in the intake than in the exhaust, a camshaft suited for superchargers or nitrous will usually works well. When the exhaust backpressure is lower than the intake, reversion is not a problem, actually just the opposite is a problem. More pressure in the intake can blow fresh intake charge right out the exhaust valve. This can be a serious problem with a turbo motor since the charge will burn in the exhaust raising temperatures of the exhaust valves and turbo. This is also a problem with superchargers, which is why supercharger cam profiles usually work well with turbo's. In this type situation, the power required to turn the turbine is nearly 100% recovered energy that would have normally been dumped out the tailpipe, basically free power. Many will argue that nothing is free and you need pressure to spin the turbine and this must make pumping losses. They are wrong because a turbo is not getting anything for free at all, it is just making the engine more efficient. It is true that there are pumping losses, but on the other hand there are pumping gains as well. If the exhaust back pressure is lower than the intake, the intake pressure makes more force on the intake stroke to help push the piston down. At the same time another piston is on it's exhaust stroke. So the intake pressure is more than canceling out the exhaust pressure. Not free, just more efficient.

Valve Lift

By delaying the opening of the intake, the duration of the cam will be much shorter. A short duration intake works well with a turbo, but the problem is that sufficient lift is hard to get from such a short duration. This is where high ratio rockers can really pay off. A cam for a turbo engine can delay the intake opening by over 40Â° compared to an cam for a normally aspirated engine. This makes for much less valve lift when the piston is at peak velocity (somewhere near 75Â° ATDC), any help to get the valve open faster will make large improvements.

Roller Camshafts

Turbo motors place a large flow demand at low valve lifts, and roller cams cannot accelerate the valve opening as fast as a flat tappet. They do catch up and pass a flat tappet after about 20Â° or so, but up until that point the favor goes toward the flat tappet cam. The area where rollers really help in turbo motors (and supercharged) is cutting frictional losses. Any forced induction engine will need more spring force on the intakes. If you run a lot of boost, you'll need quite a bit more spring force to control the valves. As spring forces gets higher, the life of the cam gets reduced. A roller tappet can withstand more than twice the spring pressure as a flat tappet with no problems. On the exhaust side, it's not the springs that put the loads on the cam lobes. The problem there is that there is still so much cylinder pressure trying to hold that valve closed. This puts tremendous pressure on the exhaust lobes. So when high boost levels are used, consider a roller cam. I would definitely consider a roller cam on engines making more than 20 lbs. of boost.

Ignition system - By turborides

2008-08-12T03:22:00.000-07:00

Possibly nowhere else in the performance engine world is there more misinformation, myth and downright false claims than in the ignition component aftermarket. Many manufacturers of these products prey on the naive, uninformed consumer. We will try to help you understand what is really going on and what works and what doesn't. This article addresses current production performance atmo and turbocharged engines.

The Ignition/Combustion Process

Many people think that when the sparkplug fires, the fuel/air mixture explodes instantaneously, driving the piston down. If this really happened, engines would last only a few minutes before they literally grenaded.

Let's examine the process and dynamics involved from the moment that the intake valve is fully open. With the piston moving down the bore, cylinder volume increases, cylinder pressure decreases, allowing the higher pressure in the intake tract to push the fuel/air mixture into the cylinder. As the piston starts back up and the intake valve closes, cylinder volume decreases and cylinder pressure increases.

When the crankshaft reaches about 30 degrees before top dead center, the spark jumps the gap between the plug electrodes. The purpose of the spark is to raise the temperature of a very small portion of the fuel/air mixture above its ignition temperature. This is the point where true combustion begins. As the exothermic reaction starts, the mixture directly adjacent to the spark plug is also ignited and the process rapidly progresses out from the plug in a roughly spherical shape.

At about 20 degrees BTDC, the rate of heat release causes the cylinder pressure to rise above the compression line which is what the cylinder pressure would be at a given piston position without ignition. Notice that it has taken 10 degrees of crank rotation to generate this pressure level. This is known as the ignition-delay period.

The rate of pressure rise is a function of the rate of energy release vs. the rate of change of combustion space or cylinder volume. The rate of energy release is directly related to the flame propagation rate and the area of reacting surface. Flame speed is dependant on fuel/air ratio, charge density, charge homogeny, fuel characteristics, charge turbulence and reaction with inert gasses and the metal combustion chamber, cylinder walls and piston.

In technical terms, the pressure rise is referred to as flagregation. No two combustion cycles progress at the same rate or at a uniform rate. Some start slow and end slow. Some start slow and end fast. Some start fast and slow down. Generally, only the ones that end too fast will lead to knocking as the rapid pressure rise may happen too soon with the cylinder volume still decreasing or not increasing fast enough. Usually, not all cylinders will knock at the same time or on the same cycle because of this.

By the time the crank is at about 5 degrees ATDC, the cylinder pressure is about double that of the compression line. From this point to roughly 15 degrees ATDC the combustion process is very rapid due to the increasing area of inflamed mixture and the high rate of energy release. The peak cylinder pressure (PCP) occurs between 10 and 20 degrees ATDC on most engines and the combustion process is complete by 20 to 25 degrees ATDC.. The peak temperature within the combustion gasses will reach somewhere around 5000 degrees Fahrenheit and pressures may be anywhere from 300 to 2500psi depending on the engine.

Obviously it is very important to have the crankpin at an advantageous angle before maximum cylinder pressure is achieved in order that maximum force is applied through the piston and rod to the crankshaft. If the mixture was ignited too early, much of the force would simply try to compress the piston, rod and crank without performing any useful work. In a worst case scenario, the cylinder pressure would be rapidly rising before the piston reached TDC which would have the cylinder volume decreasing at the same time. This will often result in knock or detonation which is counterproductive to maximum power and engine life.

Detonation or knock is defined as a form of combustion which involves too rapid a rate of energy release producing excessive temperatures and pressures, adversely affecting the conversion of chemical energy into useful work. Detonation usually involves ignition and literal explosion of the end gases, these being the gases not in contact with the initial spark or the progressing flame front.

If PCP was achieved too late, again, less work would be performed. Most of the useful work is done in the first 100 degrees of crank rotation. Most combustion must be done with the piston in close proximity to the chamber so that the minimum amount of heat (energy) is lost into the water jackets and the maximum amount of energy is delivered to the crankshaft.

Let's examine the different variables regarding flame speed separately and their effects:

Fuel/air Ratio

Gasoline can be ignited in a non-stratified charge type engine between limits of roughly 10 to 1 (rich) and 20 to 1 (lean) air/fuel ratios. Most gasolines will burn fastest at ratios in the 12.5 to 13.5 to 1 range. The stoichiometric or chemically correct ratio is around 14.7 to 1 which also results in the lowest average emissions. Best power is obtained with a rich mixture of around 12 to 13.5 to 1.

Charge Density

Charge density is affected by the pressure and temperature of the charge. The higher the charge density, the more rapidly it will burn.

Charge Turbulence

Because the charge is in constant motion from the valve and port flow characteristics along with inertial effects and piston motion, the mixing of fuel and air molecules is dynamic. From one split second to the next, the actual mixture and molecular distribution changes. This can mean in some instances, that if a very short duration spark was initiated at one instant, the mixture might not ignite, whereas only a half millisecond later, conditions might be perfect for ignition. For this reason, very short duration sparks are undesirable. A long duration spark or multispark ignition system will ensure the highest ignition probability.

Fuel Characteristics

Low compression engines usually run well on low octane fuel because they have relatively low charge densities and the burn rate within these confines is usually predictable. A low compression engine switched to 118 octane race fuel will always lose power unless the ignition advance is increased to compensate for the slower burn rates. Even then, a low CR engine may lose power with the timing optimized for high octane fuel.

A high compression or turbocharged engine operates with much higher charge densities and consequently faster burn rates. The high octane fuel permits these rapid burn rates because it has far less tendency to autoignite and detonate under these conditions. As a result, high compression and turbo engines cannot realize their full hp potential without high octane fuel.

Combustion Chamber Shape and Spark Plug Location

Combustion chambers and spark plug location and the number of plugs will have a marked effect on the time required to complete the combustion process. A large open chamber like a hemi which has a high surface to volume ratio, will combust more slowly than a wedge or modern pentroof chamber simply because it has more cold, metal molecules in contact with the combustion gasses which tends to slow reaction rates. For this reason, these chambers will require that the spark be initiated sooner to achieve PCP at the correct time.

The slowest combusting chamber would be an open chamber with a large bore size and the spark plug at one edge of the chamber. The flame front has a long distance to cover to complete combustion. By placing the plug in the center of the chamber, you halve the distance that the front needs to travel and will be able to reduce the spark advance needed to achieve maximum power. Another solution would be to add another spark plug to create two flame fronts which would also require much less time to combust. This is the solution in most aircraft engines where big bores and poor fuel distribution and homogeny require solutions to increase ignition probability.

Modern 4 valve engines with shallow pentroof chambers and a central plug location are fast, efficient combustors, requiring minimal advance for maximum power.

Inductive Discharge Coils

Generating the spark on most production automotive systems is accomplished by the coil. Coils have 2 sets of windings, a primary and a secondary. The typical coil will have around 250 turns of wire on the primary and about 25,000 on the secondary for a ratio of 100 to 1. The secondary section often uses an iron core to increase its inductance. Coil resistance on the primary will be from .5 to 2.5 ohms usually and on the secondary, between 5000 and 12,000 ohms.

The inductance and resistance of the coil will determine how quickly a coil can be charged and discharged.

A transistor is used to switch the current flow off and on in the primary coil. When the transistor is switched on, current rapidly builds from 0 to a maximum value determined by the coil inductance and resistance. This current flow induces a magnetic field within the primary. When the current is turned off, this magnetic field collapses which cuts the windings of the secondary coil and induces a high voltage surge.

The output voltage is determined by the rate of field collapse and the windings ratio between primary and secondary. Because the path to ground for the current involves the spark gap, the initial resistance is extremely high. This allows the voltage to build to a very high value until it gets high enough to jump the plug gap. The potential difference must be high enough to first ionize the gas between the electrodes. The ionized gas creates a conductive path for the current to flow. At this point, the arc jumps and current flow is established.

It is important to note that if only 10,000 volts are required to jump a plug gap under a given condition, that will be the maximum delivered. It is also important to note that the spark duration is determined by coil inductance and total resistance of the circuit, plus spark plug gap. Most inductive discharge systems have a spark duration of between 1 and 2 milliseconds.

As cylinder pressure increases, the voltage required to jump the plug gap increases. This is especially true in turbocharged engines under boost. The second problem on high performance engines with high rev limits, is that there is less time to charge the coil with increasing rpm. As such, a high rpm, high output, turbo engine puts greater demands on the ignition system than does a 5000 rpm naturally aspirated engine. Additionally, with a single coil, the more cylinders that you are firing, the less rpm you can run before the spark voltage becomes insufficient to jump the plug gap. A V8 engine would only run to about half the rpm that a 4 would before encountering misfire.

Coil Charge Time and Saturation

The amount of time it takes to charge the coil or bring the current to maximum in the primary windings is called charge time. Input voltage and coil resistance are the main parameters relating to charge time. When the current has reached its maximum value in the primary, it is said to be fully saturated.

If current is applied longer than the time needed to fully saturate the primary, energy is wasted and there is nothing more to be gained. If the current is cut off before saturation is achieved, the maximum spark energy available will be reduced.

Typical coils require charge times of between 2.1 and 6 milliseconds. Obviously, a coil requiring 6 milliseconds to saturate would be unsuitable on a high revving engine as there is not 6 milliseconds available to charge it between discharges at high rpm. For this reason, most performance and racing coils have low primary resistances between .5 and .7 ohms and are fully saturated in less than 3 milliseconds. This permits full coil output at very high rpms.

Most 4 cylinder engines below 200hp/L specific output will run fine below 9000 rpm with a good inductive discharge coil setup.

Capacitive Discharge Ignition

On very high output engines, especially V8 and V12 engines, a single inductive discharge coil is inadequate to supply spark at high rpm and high cylinder pressures. This is where the CD ignition or CDI is used to reduce charge times. The MSD line is very popular worldwide, especially on American V8 engines fitted with distributors.

In normal inductive discharge coils, only 12-14 volts is available from the battery to charge the primary. The CDI charges capacitors to store a high voltage kick to fire to the primary side, putting between 30 and 500 volts onto the primary windings which reduces the charge time substantially. A coil that would take 3 milliseconds to become fully saturated with 12 volts is now fully saturated in less than 1 with a CDI. The same engine now will be able to turn twice the rpm and experience a major increase in cylinder pressure before encountering misfire.

A slight drawback to CDIs are their shorter spark discharge times although it is better to have a shorter spark rather than no spark. One other concern when using a CDI and a distributor especially ones having closely spaced wire terminals is the possibility of crossfiring. This may happen when the coil voltage is so high that the spark will jump to adjacent terminals which can be very destructive. Most high output CDI systems will also run a larger diameter cap to reduce this possibility. Ignition rotor life may also be somewhat reduced.

Some CDIs also include a multispark function where more than 1 spark is generated after the first spark. This improves ignition probability but it is usually discontinued above 3000 rpm because there just isn't enough time available to make this useful. If the first spark didn't ignite the mixture at 8000 rpm, the 2rd spark a few milliseconds later would light off the mixture very late, leading to PCP occuring late with little useful power being delivered. Igniting late is probably better than not at all though.

One company who makes CDIs claims that their system cures all misfires among other dubious benefits. This is a physical impossibility as we have seen above that many factors could contribute to a misfire which are totally outside the realm of the ignition system. An over rich or over lean condition or broken parts cannot be fixed by ANY CDI system.

Many CDIs also claim increased fuel economy which is unlikely as well at the normal air/fuel ratios run in automotive engines. Besides the high rpm coil saturation advantages, perhaps the only other one would be greater resistance to plug fouling. However on modern, well tuned engines in proper repair, plug fouling is really a thing of the past anyway.

Direct Ignition

Commonly known as DIS. Most DIS units are of the inductive discharge type. They use a double ended, isolated coil which fires one cylinder on the compression stroke and one on the exhaust stroke simultaneously. This is referred to as a waste spark strategy.

The advantages of DIS are the elimination of the distributor and the associated rotor to terminal air gap and moving parts, plus the addition of twice the number coils so that one can be charged while the other is discharging. This feature allows DIS to produce a very powerful spark up to around 10,000 rpm.

The disadvantage of the waste spark strategy is that the coils are firing at twice the frequency needed which reduces the charge time window at extreme rpm. DIS systems will usually fire the plugs on any engine up to 10,000 rpm and 300hp/L specific output.

Coil on Plug

The latest, greatest ignition, is the coil on plug setup (COP). This method uses a small inductive discharge coil clipped directly to each spark plug. It eliminates plug wires entirely and does not usually use the waste spark strategy so it has twice the amount of time available to saturate. This basically doubles the RPM capability of the system over other ignition systems. This is the system used in FI and Indy Car engines which generate outputs of over 300hp/L and 16,000 rpm.

Many new top line production engines are starting to use COP.

Ignition Wires

The purpose of the ignition wires is to conduct the maximum coil output energy to the spark plugs with a minimum amount of radiated electromagnetic interference (EMI) and radio frequency interference (RFI). On most street applications using digital computers for engine management control, excessive EMI and even RFI can interfere with ECUs and cause running problems.

There are 3 basic types of conductors used in automotive applications: Carbon string, solid and spiral wound. Most production engines come equipped with carbon string or spiral wound. The solid core types are used exclusively for racing, mainly with carbureted engines because they offer no EMI or RFI suppression. They generally have a low resistance stainless steel conductor. These types are rapidly losing favor, even in racing circles.

The carbon string type is the most common and work just fine in most stock type applications. The conductor is usually a carbon impregnated fiberglass multistrand. Suppression qualities are fine with resistances in the 5K to 10K ohms per foot. They are cheap and reliable for 2 to 5 years usually, then they may start to break down and should be replaced. High voltage racing ignitions will likely hasten their demise.

The spiral wound type is probably the best type for any application. The better brands offer excellent suppression, relatively low resistance and don't really wear out. Construction quality and choice of material vary widely between brands.

NGK makes low priced wire sets which work well in performance and street applications however the terminal ends tend to be a bit fragile.

Magnecor makes excellent quality spiral types with high suppression qualities. These are reasonably priced for the quality you are getting and proven worldwide over many years under extreme conditions.

Some amount of resistance is required along with proper construction to achieve high suppression levels. Resistance is also important to avoid damaging some types of coils and amplifiers due to flyback and coil harmonics. Beware of wires claiming to have very low resistance. These CANNOT have good suppression qualities.

Beware of any wires claiming to increase hp. Ignition wires CANNOT increase hp. As long as the wires that you have are allowing the spark to jump the gap properly, installing a set of $400 wires is strictly a waste of money.

Lately, some truly "magic" wires have come onto the market claiming to not only increase power but also to shorten the spark duration from milliseconds to nanoseconds. As we have seen above, spark duration is determined primarily by coil inductance and coil resistance so these wires CANNOT shorten the spark duration by the amount claimed. The wire resistance has a minimal effect on discharge time because of the high voltage involved. We have also seen above that a very short duration spark is in fact detrimental to ignition because of lower probability.

These same wires claim to increase flame front propagation rates and the ability to ignite over- rich mixtures for more power. We have again seen that once ignited, the mixture undergoes the flagregation process and that the progression rate of the flame front is totally independent of the spark. We have also learned above that most gasolines will not ignite nor burn at air fuel ratios richer than 10 to 1, period, and that maximum power is actually achieved at around 12-13 to 1 AFR so the second claim also has no basis in fact.

These wires use a braided metal shield over the main conductor which is grounded to the chassis. This arrangement offers poor suppression because it does not cover the entire conductor. Any energy leaking out of the main conductor by induction is actually wasted to ground and will not make it to the spark plug. These wires also have very low resistance which as we have seen above, can have a detrimental effect on coils and ignition amplifiers due to severe flyback effects which are normally damped by circuit resistance.

Other claims for these wires include current flows of up to 1000 amps. The current flow in the ignition circuit is determined by the coil construction and drive circuits, not by the ignition wires. Most ignition systems are current limited to between 5 and 15 amps. The most powerful race systems rarely exceed 30 amps. To flow current at 1000 amps, you would require #0 welding cable for the ignition system!

Spark Plugs

The last part in the ignition system is the spark plug itself. The average plug consists of steel shell which threads into the cylinder head, a ceramic insulator, an iron or copper core leading to a nickel or platinum center electrode and a ground electrode of similar material. The spark jumps between the center and ground electrode. Certain special application plugs may have multiple ground electrodes.

Different heat ranges are available depending on application. For constant high power applications, a colder than stock plug is usually selected to keep internal temperatures within limits.

Again, many "magic" plugs come onto the market from time to time expounding the virtues of their incredible new design, usually offering more hp of course. Split electrode plugs are a waste of money because the spark will only jump to one of the electrodes at a time in any case.

You will find that most reputable engine builders in the higher forms of racing use pretty standard NGK, Bosch or Champion plugs with pretty standard electrode setups. A properly selected, standard plug will easily last 25,000 miles of hard use in most engines. A platinum tipped plug will easily last twice as long on most engines. There just isn't any rocket science here. Modern spark plugs coupled to modern ignition systems in a modern engine are extremely cheap and reliable. In most cases, on street performance and even race engines, a $2, off the shelf, NGK plug will work just fine.

2008-07-28T04:37:00.000-07:00

Switching tappets allow switching between two valve lift lengths (valve lift switching) or between full lift and zero lift (valve or cylinder deactivation) in engines with an overhead camshaft. As a result, the thermodynamic efficiency of the engine can be optimised as a function of the engine load.

The switching tappet consists of two nested housings, the inner and outer housing. The inner housing is located between the engine valve and camshaft and transmits the zero or partial lift to the valve. The outer housing is pressed against the end stop on the inner housing by a lost motion spring. Both housing parts can be linked by means of a coupling mechanism. In the locked condition, the high lift is transmitted via the outer housing to the valve. As in the standard tappet, valve lash adjustment can be by hydraulic or mechanical means.

Modifications compared to standard valve train:

Camshaft with triple cam used
Switching valve integrated in oil circuit
Anti-rotation device in tappet guide
ECU with data map for controlling switching valve

Satria NEO 1.6 MT unichip

2008-07-06T05:15:00.000-07:00

This is the satri neo 1.6 liter with manual transmission that installed unichip Q+

This got basic mod like below :-
1) 4-2-1 extractor
2) OPen pod ( not really idea intake system :P )
3) Adjustable fuel regulator
4) CRV ngk plug cable

Original dyno :-
Hp ( on engine ) :- 131 bhp
Torque :- about 162nm

After unichip :-
Hp ( on engine ) :- 136 bhp
Torque :- about 172nm

2008-07-05T22:01:00.000-07:00

This the number engrave at the block is number to determine what kind of crankcase bearing to use . Of course just these numbers not enough . Is combination with numbers engrave on crankshaft

see below ... got another set of number on the crankshaft . both must add together
Example : crankcase 11211 and crankshaft 11111
crankcase bearing will be
position 1 : 2
position 2 : 2
position 3 : 3
position 4 : 2
position 5 : 2

you will see crankcase bearing got number on it

con rod bearing also engraved on crankshft . see the picture : 2222

1.3 crankshaft got con rod bearing number near to conrod shaft on crankshaft

1.3 crankcase bearing number

another set of conrod bearing number for 1.3 crankshaft

2008-07-05T21:21:00.001-07:00

Stock plug cable just a simple carbon and fibre core !!

Look at the NGK plug cable . You will steel wire winding at outside of carbon core . And ngk carbon core not like stock plug cable . It is very thin type .

Afterthat we will see what is so called spiral core . I have stock campro plug cable dismantled and CRV ( ngk plug cable ) .

2008-07-05T21:08:00.000-07:00

Engine oil pump

1.6 liter head . You will notice campro got combustion chamber that not really deep . That will allow small bore too be used . Pro is you can build a very high comp campro , con is changed to high lift cam you need to modify piston head . If not valve will hit piston head . That is the reason why matspeed not increase lift but increase duration

1.3 & 1.6 block . Same !!

1.3 liter nothing different with 1.6

campro cam shaft lobe . Measured lift at 5.8 mm . Further increase lift will hit piston head !! . Piston head need to do so mod job to avoid from hit valve .

Rebuild campro engine

2008-06-28T21:05:00.000-07:00

Sorry long time no update being busy to rebuild campro engine . something special to share here . First let see what is different between 1.3 and 1.6 campro engine . Basically both engine share same block and head . But 1.6 head slightly different because it is ready cps platform , 1.3 not . Anyway both head still can use .

let see cranksdhaft for 1.3 and 1.6 .

1600cc crankshaft

1300cc crankshaft

Picture below show different of stroke to stroke pitch

Next we will see piston and conrod

1600cc piston and conrod

1300cc piston and conrod

let see different between both piston and conrod height
1300cc taller than 1600cc . Because 1300cc crankshaft stoke to stroke pitch shorter than 1600cc , then it need longer conrod . Basically both piston is same , just different in head top design . sink down and bounce up .

Actually we can use the 1.3 liter piston head to increase compression ratio from 10.0 to 11.0 and above . Some modification need to be done one the 1.3liter piston . Of course conrod still need to use back 1.6liter conrod instead of 1.3liter .

Next will be 1.6 liter high compression modification . Almost done rebuild from 1300 to 1600 .

Gear Ratio by Gear-manufacturer.com

2008-05-16T11:51:00.000-07:00

Gear Ratios

Gear ratio is a number, usually expressed as a decimal fraction, representing how many turns of the input shaft cause one revolution of the output shaft. It applies to transmission, power take off, power dividers and rear axles. It can be defined as the ratio between numbers of teeth on the meshing gears. If the input gear is turning faster than the output gear, the system is said to have power ratio. If the input gear is turning slower than the output gear then the system is said to have a speed ratio.

In simple gear arrangement, the gear ratio can be simple calculated by looking at the number of teeth on the two gear wheels. It can also be calculated by dividing the tooth count of ring gear to the tooth count of pinion gear, carry out to 2 decimal point. The diameter of the gear wheel can also be calculated. A high gear ratio implies a high torque.

The special case of gear ratios are the engine speed of the car to the rotation of the drive wheels. In top gears, one turn of the engine crankshaft results in one turn of the drive wheels. Lower gears require more turns of the engine to provide single turn of the drive wheels, producing more torque at the drive wheel.

In a bicycle if the front gear is smaller than the back gear then the cycle is said to have power ratio and the cycle moves easily up the hill. On the other side, if the front gear is larger than the back gear then it has speed ratio and this enables the cycle to go downhill easily.

Several gearboxes use the drive ratio of 15/46.

Gear no.	Group teeth	Loose gear	Overall ratio
1	9	51	17.40
2	12	42	10.71
3	16	39	7.47
4	19	35	5.65

A final drive ratio of 2.8:1 is commonly used, especially with cars with automatic transmission. This means that the drive pinion must rotate 2.8 times to make the ring gear rotate one time. On cars with manual transmission more torque application is used, generally a ratio of 3.5:1 is used. Small engine cars and trucks use a final drive ratio of 4.5:1 to provide more torque to enable them to pull or move heavy loads.

The overall gear ratio is equal to ratio of ring and pinion gear multiplied by the ratio of speed gear the car is operating in. For example, if a car has a final drive ratio of 3:1, the total final drive ratio for each transmission speed is as follows:

-	Transmission ratio	Final drive ratio	Total final drive ratio
First gear	3:1	3:1	9:1
Second gear	2.5:1	3:1	7.5:1
Third gear	1.5:1	3:1	4.5:1
Fourth gear	1:1	3:1	3:1
Fifth gear	0.75:1	3:1	2.25:1

TURBO BASIC

2008-05-03T10:18:00.000-07:00

By TURBO TORQUE - www.mazdarotary.net

Turbo Basics

A turbocharger is used to force air/fuel mixture into an engine at a pressure greater then the natural atmospheric pressure of around 14.5 PSI. When a turbo produces 7 PSI of boost, this means how much extra pressure it applies on top of the natural atmospheric pressure. The way a turbo works is the exhaust coming out of the engine is pushed through a turbine. This turbine is mounted on a shaft, which in turn spins an air compressor. The compressor draws air in and blows it into the inlet manifold, and this produces BOOST. The whole point of forcing the air/fuel mixture into an engine is to allow it to burn more fuel and make more power with the same engine capacity. This can get complicated, as there are several factors that get in the way of efficency gain. For one thing when you compress air (with a turbo) it gets hotter. The problem with hotter air is that it contains less oxygen than cooler air, so there is less oxygen to help burn extra fuel that’s going into the engine. This is why many turbocharged cars use “intercooling” of various types, to cool the pressurised air back down into the engine.

Compressed Air = Hot Air

It’s important to consider problem of too much heat inside the engine. Once the hot compressed air goes inside the engine it is then compressed again by the piston in the engine. Therefore by the time the mixture of fuel/air mixture is ignited it is really hot. When it is too hot it could ignite itself before the spark plugs fires (known as pinging). When the engine pings the smooth, well-timed normal ignition mishaps, costing you power and damaging ports to the engine. Damage is caused to the engine, and can therefore lead to blowing the head gasket, this then chain-reacts to more severe cases. Another problem when the engine has an air/fuel mixture which is too lean, that is not enough fuel for the air coming in, which creates too much heat, or having ignition which is not suited to the engine. With private turbo installations these problems are often ignored. The ignition timing required for optimum power and smoothness from a turbocharged engine is in fact totally different to that required for a non-turbo engine. This is because the more efficient the engine is, the less advanced the ignition timing needs to be to get power combustion of the fuel/air mixture. When the engine gets more and more boost, the ignition should happen later and later in each cylinders or rotors combustion cycle. To get best out of the turbocharged engine it needs a balance of boost, mixture richness, charge air temp and ignition timing that allows it to run smoothly and efficiently with the type of fuel you're using. If you use low-octane fuel, it is more susceptible to pinging as it ignites more suddenly and erratically. The higher the octane of your fuel, the more smoothly and progressively it will burn, which helps prevent pinging. This means that with better fuel you can run more boost or more advanced ignition without any engine difficulties, which indeed means more POWER.

Turbo Engine Setups

Carburetor

There are two types of choices in a carburetor turbo setup: “Suck-through” or “Blow through”. The Suck-through (or draw through) setup involves mounting the carburetor before the turbo inlet (usually in front of the impeller mouth). This means that both fuel and air are drawn into the turbo already mixed and then blown into the inlet manifold. This is by far the simplest way to set up a turbo, as the carburetor doesn’t need to be especially modified and tuning is quite easy. The main disadvantages are that you can’t use any intercooling with such a setup, as it is dangerous to run air/fuel mixture through an intercooler core. The reason for this is that fuel can condense inside the intercooler core and stay there – if you then have an engine backfire the intercooler can explode. As a result water injection is about the only option for cooling the charge air with this setup. This also corresponds to a blow-off valve because instead of just venting pressurised air, it would be releasing a fuel/air mixture which is very dangerous. The Blow-through arrangement, logically enough, means the carburetor is mounted after the turbo compressor, so the turbo only draws in air and then blows it through the carburettor, which adds the fuel. To use a carburetor this way it has to be specially modified so that the jets will still add the right amount of fuel. This means specially sealing the carburetor and pressurizing the fuel bowls to match the turbo boost. The good thing is than an intercooler and also a blow-off valve can be used with such a setup.

Fuel Injection

Fuel Injection is the best setup for a turbo engine. As the injectors are controlled by a computer you have full control over the fuel delivery and can tune the engine’s fuel/air ratios much more accurately rather than with jets. A turbo charged EFI engine would have an air filter before the turbo, which then blows through a pipe to the throttle body. The throttle body controls how much air goes into the inlet manifold, which is where the injectors add the fuel. The intercooler (if fitted) is mounted after the turbo, but before the throttle body. When adding a turbo to a naturally aspirated EFI engine, more often then not the injectors themselves will have to be upsized to cope with the fuel demands of a turbo charged engine. The smaller injectors will fail to keep up with the engine and cause it to lean out. Likewise the fuel pumps will often need to be upgraded, because its no good having big injectors if the fuel pump can't keep the fuel pressure up to them at high RPM. Rather than designing a new fuel map and changing the factory injectors, an independent injector driver can be used to drive one or more extra injectors. This is cheaper and easier to do, so it is quite popular for cheaper turbo kits and upgrades. However, it does not offer the same degree of fine-tuning as complete fuel system upgrade. For the best drivability and reliability a full after market programmable computer system is definitely the way to go. Using a programmable computer also gives you much more flexibility for making future modifications.

Twin Turbo

Factory twin turbo systems are invariably designed to make the engine more tractable, rather than more powerful. To understand why this is so, you have to realise that big turbos and small turbos behave quite differently. A small turbo has minimal inertia, so it takes more gas flow and boost. On the other hand a small turbo may not be able to flow boost up to a maximum level when a large engine is revving to its greatest. A larger turbo will have greater further capacity, so although it takes longer to speed up, it wont run out of puff at the top end of an engines rev range. To give an example say we have a 2.0 litre engine with a small turbo like a Garret T2. Such an engine would come “on boost “ at very low engine speeds possibly before below 2000RPM, but due to the limited flow capacity of the turbo, by 4000RPM boost would start to trail off and by 6000RPM you might have less then half your normal boost level. If you change this turbo for something very large like a Garret T4, the engine wouldn’t come on boost until much later – probably around 4000RPM, which may make the car a bit difficult to drive, but the good thing is that by 6000RPM the turbo would still happily provide full boost. Normally you would look for a compromise somewhere in between, like a T28, so you would get boost just before 3000RPM and only trail of very slightly at the top end. Ready to get the best of both turbos, however, some manufacturers have used a set up called “sequential turbo charging”. Put simply, this system uses a small turbo to give boost at low RPM, with an additional larger turbo kicking in at higher RPM. These systems take a lot of development to get working smoothly and are also expensive to do in an aftermarket engine, but factory sequential turbo engines like the 13B-REW rotary in the series 6 RX7 are certainly very impressive. A slightly simpler approach is to use two small turbos instead of one big one. This way both turbos come on boost at relatively low RPM, but because you have twice the flow of one small turbo, boost doesn’t tend to drop off at higher RPM quite as much. For ultimate power potential, however, one big turbo still has more potential due to superior to its flow efficiency. This is why drag cars generally use one huge turbo even if the engine came with a twin turbo setup originally.

High Flow Turbos

Turbo sizes need to be properly calculated to get optimum performance and drivability for a given engine. Generally a hi-flow turbo will use the existing exhaust turbine from a factory turbo, with either a larger compressor wheel in the existing housing, or a whole new compressor assembly grafted on. It is generally the case that the existing turbines on factory turbochargers can support a larger compressor, so this is convenient way to improve the flow capability of your turbocharger while still keeping the original manifolding, oil feeds and etc. This process is relatively cheaper than going for a new turbo and associated parts required for that turbo.

Engine oil cooler setup

2008-05-03T08:22:00.000-07:00

Just finish my engine oil cooler installation today . Damn tire after installed the cooler .... Below is some picture of the engine cooler on campro ( GEN 2 )

Campro 1.6 liter piston

2008-04-30T19:42:00.001-07:00

CKS AUTO AT KEPONG

2008-04-30T19:35:00.000-07:00

Proudly to recommend one of my friend's workshop at kepong . CKS AUTO TUNE !! .

CAMPRO SPECIALIST :P . Good to hear that CKS got diagnostic tool like LAUNCH , is a multi protocol diagnostic tool that read and change certain features of ecu .

Engine control unit / Engine management

2008-04-30T17:59:00.000-07:00

Whenever i browse thru certain malaysia car club forum , i sure get some term like " self learning " , " re-adapt " and bla bla ... But when i browse those foreigner car club , i can't find those term . :P . That is weird . The reason is they really understand functional of ecu . Some of them really expert in reflash flash memory chip , eeprom & eprom of ecu . They did explained how a car engine management unit mapping working . Those term at above that alway mention by malaysian is referring to close loop system . Close loop system is designed for emission control purpose and enable engine to work at perfect A/F no matter low revving or high revving . Fuel economic also need close loop system to be in place . A close loop system needs various sensors work as feedback to ecu , so ecu able to adjust air fuel ratio accordingly . Like siemen EMS700 for campro , O2 sensor and manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor ) will work parallel to ensure A/F ratio at certain throttle angle and rpm as close as A/F ratio stated inside A/F mapping . So when you try to offset the MAP sensor reading before reach ecu with piggyback , A/F ratio will change either lean or rich . That is still not enough to fool ecu , because close loop system require ecu to compare O2 sensor reading with MAP sensor reading and A/F ratio target . One of the element change and violet A/F preset value , ecu will ignore it and trim fuel to achieve A/F ratio as per preset A/F value . Like you want to make A/F lean , you use piggyback like AFC neo to change the MAP sensor signal voltage from high to low . Yes , you manage to change the actual A/F from rich to lean . After a few second , ecu will trim fuel to change actual A/F ratio as per preset A/F with help of O2 sensor . If preset A/F ratio is 14.7 +/- 0.5 , any actual A/F ratio that out of tolerance will be tuned back to nominal . So you can not just cheat ecu with offset MAP sensor voltage , you have to offset O2 sensor signal as well . For NA , is not a big problem just you cannot get the after tuned performance to last long . For bolt on turbo , you may blow your engine if ecu change actual A/F rich to lean during boosting . You need a piggyback that can change O2 sensor signal as well not MAP sensor alone !!

why need to change terminal if change to CRV plug cable

2008-04-27T01:53:00.000-07:00

Here is the image to show different of campro stock plug cable terminal and mitsubishi / honda plug cable terminal .

Engine oil cooler & auto transmission fluid cooler

2008-04-26T13:37:00.000-07:00

Finally i have received my new order engine oil cooler from my taiwan supplier . All this while i never order engine oil cooler from my supplier . I just order auto transmission fluid cooler and supply to some local workshop and some of campro owners .
Due to my turbo project , i have choose to install an engine oil cooler for my aggressive driving style during togue activity ( hill road challenge ) . Engine oil cooler is just meant for those machine always involve high revving , force induction and high compression like 10.5 : 0 and above . Normal road user not encourage to put on one , unless you have condition as mentioned above . Below is my engine oil cooler image .

I also got many types of engine oil cooler . below is some of them ....

ATF COOLER ( AUTO TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER )

This stuff dedicated for those who driving an auto car . Never think that stock ATF cooling is sufficient for those auto car in asia country . Car just route the ATF throw a small compartment that built either on top or side of water radiator . The ATF never cool down at temperature below 70 degree c . You need a separate heat exchanger like ATF cooler to remove heat from ATF and cool down the auto gearbox friction part like clutch . Never think that clutch inside auto gearbox is like manual transmission , 4 times smaller then manual transmission clutch . The clutch will start to wear off faster if ATF temperature never bring down as low as it can . The ATF lubrication will be lost if temperature above it's flash point . So you need one to protect your auto gearbox and allow power transfer will more efficient . Below is some sample of ATF cooler .

You may leave a msg for me if you interesting to have one .... Offered price for ATF is RM320 excluded installation .

For penang buyer ,

You may visit

northern garage at sg.ara . Contact person :- Eric ; Hp number 012-4980904

Progrssive Hiline at sunway tunas . contact person :- Michael ; Hp number 017-4988552

For Kl buyer ,

You may call adrian or xenon ; contact number :- 016-3988338

spark plug cable for campro

2008-04-24T02:33:00.000-07:00

I wonder how many of you really know spark plug cable type . Last month i got my nology plug cable spoiled , and got replacement . Guess , i got HONDA CRV plug cable as replacement . This replacement has given something simply improve engine response . From my observation , this replacement really make engine more responsive than nology plug cable . The reason why i choose CRV plug cable because that cable got spiral carbon core which was similar with nology plug cable spiral core . Spiral core also used in NGK power cable , but NGK power cable got noise suppression insulator before stainless steel wire winded on the carbon core .

I have recommended to many of my friend own campro . All got positive feedback .
You can not get the CRV plug cable and direct plug to the stock bosch coil pack . You need to either change the coil pack to mitsubishi or change the CRV plug cable ori terminal to campro ori terminal . If you want to upgrade to CRV plug cable , pls leave a msg at the msg box . Or e-mail me kevintan68@hotmail.com

You can buy NGK power cable and change terminal as well .

ALL about turbo exhaust manifold - DSM

2008-04-08T08:01:00.000-07:00

N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.

For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.

Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.

Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.

As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.”

"As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12° included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles.

A large "bellmouth" config which combines the turbine discharge and wastegate flow (without a divider between the two) is certainly better than the compromised stock routing, but not as effective as the above.

If an integrated exhaust (non-divorced wastegate flow) is required, keep the wastegate flow separate from the main turbine discharge flow for ~12-18" before reintroducing it. This will minimize the impact on turbine efficiency-- the introduction of the wastegate flow disrupts the flow field of the main turbine discharge flow.

Necking the exhaust down to a suboptimal diameter is never a good idea, but if it is necessary, doing it further downstream is better than doing it close to the turbine discharge since it will minimize the exhaust's contribution to backpressure. Better yet: don't neck down the exhaust at all.

Also, the temperature of the exhaust coming out of a cat is higher than the inlet temperature, due to the exothermic oxidation of unburned hydrocarbons in the cat. So the total heat loss (and density increase) of the gases as it travels down the exhaust is not as prominent as it seems.

Another thing to keep in mind is that cylinder scavenging takes place where the flows from separate cylinders merge (i.e. in the collector). There is no such thing as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure.

Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc.”

"Comparing the two bellmouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however.

There's more to it, though-- if a larger bellmouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge.

As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length.”

"Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars:

Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is:

(14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure

So here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total.

Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case).

So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from.

This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level.

As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would."

Turbocharger flange

2008-04-03T03:39:00.000-07:00

Last week i very busy with my turbocharger unit oil feed and oil drain fitting . I am looking for ready made fitting , so i can plug in braided hose directly . But i am very unlucky , non of shop in penang got this kind of fitting for my oil feed and oil drain hose . Call my master for some guide , he just mention you need to custom make . :P :P Damn .... I am wasting my whole saturday for nothing , in the end rush back to island looking for my friend a tooling shop owner . Luckily he got the tool to measure the thread of the oil feed hole . Finally he can tell me i need mm thread BPT fitting . Got him to help you settle the turbo flange and oil feed flange as well . Oh , $$ again . All custom make item alway expensive than ready made . So i got the drawing kept , i can reproduce later if anyone ask for it . By next week , i will be able to show some picture of the fitting and flange .

Piggy back or fuel management system for campro BOT

2008-03-27T07:30:00.000-07:00

There are many type of piggyback system available at market . The most popular systems are emanage blue , SAFC II , SAFC NEO , unichip Q & Q+ and SMT7 . Among of them , safc and emanage are the cheapest piggback system that you can get in town . Unfortunately emanage can't control campro ignition timing and safc didn't have that feature . Ignition timing need to be adjusted if BOT . NA stocK ignition timing will cause knocking due to high degree of advance timing . Advance timing is very to generate torque in NA . By ignite mixture before fully piston fully compress , the burning of mixture will cause gas expand and build another level of pressure inside cylinder . Hence compression pressure increase , and give very huge burning power . Imaging if once BOT , air no longer suck but is force in . That already create some pressure that higher than NA inside cylinder . If allow to ignite mixture high degree advance timing will build up extreme pressure before piston fully compress. Piston will be suffered with this sudden high pressure and will not last long . Unlucky it will break immediate , or it will cause detonation and blow a hole at piston head . The worst one will bend the con rod . A piggyback that can control campro ignition timing is extremely important to protect engine after BOT .

2008-03-26T03:17:00.000-07:00

Rotational Rationale by circle track

http://www.circletrack.com

Keep cranks simple, or go high-tech?

all contributors: David Vizard

Crankshaft technology has evolved in both form and materials for the various professional racing series, even to the extent of creating significant power increases.

From the racer's point of view, a crankshaft's stroke would seem like the only dimension of any real importance. It may be, but we should not relegate the crank's other dimensional attributes to the realm of inconsequential. A crankshaft's No. 1 job is to convert the linear forces applied by combustion on the piston to rotational motion. All the power the engine is ever going to make is created above the piston crown. As a major part of the rotating assembly, a crank's job is to transmit power, as efficiently as possible, from the cylinder to the flywheel. The key words here are: as efficiently as possible. What we will examine in this article is how a crankshaft's configuration can affect its ability to efficiently convert linear power and motion to usable rotational power.

Efficiency First, let's look at crank efficiency. All too often, it is claimed that a long-stroke configuration will make more torque for a given displacement. The reason this is often quoted is that the engine has a longer lever arm with a long stroke. Although this may be true, it has sacrificed piston area, and that cancels out the stroke advantage. A longer stroke has more cylinder bore friction and limits the rod length. A long stroke signifies a shorter rod and greater friction-inducing side thrust on the cylinder wall. These factors cut output everywhere in the rpm range. These two factors alone tell us that, within limits, a short-stroke, big-bore, long-rod engine is the way to go.

Short-stroke cranks with a longer rod are mechanically more efficient than short rods and a long stroke. For a given gas pressure (A), the force pushing the piston into the cylinder wall (B) is greater when rod angularity (C) goes up (as it does with shorter rods).

Windage For the budget-orientated classes, the rule book often states that the crank cannot have knife-edged or rounded leading edges for reduced windage. I'm sure many racers have wondered just what advantage an aero crank has over a square-faced, counterweight design with a stock pattern. Some years ago, the opportunity arose to run such a test in a 383 engine. Here, Scat 331/44-inch stroke cranks of each design (aero and regular) were used because the longer stroke would more clearly show what the difference was. Also, the oil used was 20-50 Mobil. That's probably a grade thicker than what might normally be used in a typical near-stock race engine. The results (Figure 1), though almost certainly showing bigger differences than would be seen in an engine with a shorter stroke, strongly indicate the advantage of an aero crank over a regular crank.

A point to note here is that if the crankcase has a vacuum drawn on it, the advantage of an aero crank diminishes. The results in Figure 1 tell us that aero cranks are good for power output.

Coatings About 25 years ago, coatings with various properties began to find their way into the top echelons of racing. Slowly, but surely, these have developed into one more weapon in the professional engine builder's speed arsenal. Thermal barriers for heads and intakes are a common feature of many race engines, but we are looking at cranks here. The ticket here is oil-shedding, Teflon(r) based coatings. Do they help power output? Working with Calico Coatings, I ran tests-again in a 383-and got the results, which are shown in Figure 2. Conclusion: Coatings deliver, but not until fairly high in the rpm range.

This Scat cast steel aero crank has been detailed with emery rolls and given an oil-shedding Teflon(r) based coating by Calico Coatings. Our dyno results showed an increase in top-end output.

Journal Diameter For about the last five years, with no-holds-barred race engines, the trend has been to reduce rod and main bearing journal diameters wherever and whenever possible. The obvious point of this is reduced frictional bearing loss. Just how much, you may ask, can that amount to? More than you might think, as bearing loss goes up much faster than diameter does. This tends to come down significantly faster as journal size is decreased. A move some years back was to drop the normal small-block, 2-inch, big-end journal size to 1.88 inches. Although the feedback numbers vary somewhat, it seems that a gain of 5 hp at 9,000 rpm is about average. But there is more to it than just the reduction of the bearing loss. The smaller big-end journal weighs less and, as a consequence, needs less counterweight to balance it. At first, you might think it's a direct trade-off, but that actually is not the case in most circumstances. Since the counterweight is spread out over a considerable arc, much of the weight is not fully effective. Consequently, it takes more weight to balance the effect of the more compactly located mass of the piston, rod, and big-end journal. The upside of this is that if the weight is removed from either end of the counterweight (instead of removing it right at the heavy spot), a lot more counterweight mass can be removed than is lost at the big-end journal side. By keeping a close watch on piston, rod, and journal mass, significant reductions in overall crank weight and moment of inertia (MOI) can be made. Since any short and medium circle track is substantially about accelerating off the turn, a lower MOI translates directly into better acceleration. Rear wheel dyno acceleration tests of high versus low MOI rotating assemblies show that efforts put into reducing the MOI of the crank, rod, and piston assembly can easily amount to another 10 rear-wheel horsepower. The faster the acceleration rate, the bigger the difference.

Bearings and Clearance Although coatings have had some acceptance as oil-shedding mediums, the place they have found most favor is in bearings. At this point in time, it would be true to say that probably better than 50 percent of the Cup car engines are utilizing coated bearings. Personally, I hardly ever build an engine these days without coated bearings, as they have shown to take the continued abuse of extended dyno sessions and come out almost unscathed. Exactly how coatings improve bearing life is not clear, but evidence indicates that coatings not only allow the oil to flow around the journal/bearing clearance volume more easily to maintain an intake film, but also have a small amount of surface porosity that causes the oil to soak into the coating just enough to effectively combat minimal lubrication conditions. Whether that is the case remains to be seen, but not knowing how they work certainly doesn't detract from the fact that they do work.

Reduced main bearing journal size means less weight, as do hollow journals. Contrary to what might be expected, a hollow journal with the correct geometry can deliver a greater fatigue life than a solid one.

With the need to minimize the amount of oil flying around inside the crankcase, efforts have been made to keep bearing clearances down to a minimum. The smaller the bearing clearances are, the thinner the oil needed to get the job done. This means taking far more care when measuring everything and making sure the clearances are accurate. The problem for the guy on a limited budget who is building engines at home is that measuring tools can be expensive. To establish bearing clearance, two pieces of measuring equipment are needed: an internal and an external micrometer. An external micrometer can be acquired at a very reasonable price from any mass tool and equipment merchandiser, such as Harbor Freight. What seems unavailable at any price under about $600 is an internal micrometer, which measures main bores and big-end rod journal bores. At a lower price, but still far from a giveaway, is a dial-bore gauge. Many engine shops use this, but it is not exactly easy to use. Give one to 10 engine builders inexperienced with their use, and you are likely to get a main bearing measurement at 10 different sizes. The internal micrometer, on the other hand, is about as close to a sure-fire deal as it comes, regardless of how much experience the builder has with this tool.

The difference between regular flat-faced counterweights (1) and aero counterweights (2) can be seen here. Dyno tests show aero makes more power.

Cranks break through the journal radius (arrows). That is why grinding under size and making the radius bigger can actually strengthen a stock-sized crank. With a 1.88-inch journal diameter, the radii on this Cup car crank are far more critical.

So, where does this leave those of us building our engines at a home workshop with less-than-professional shop tools? Well, there is Plastigage. This stuff is about as cheap as it comes, but it is looked down upon by almost every Cup engine builder I've ever mentioned it to. Why? Because it is not as accurate as the more correct (and expensive) tools for the job. However, I think there may be an element of techno-social climbing going on here. Having used all three of the methods mentioned, here is my take on it. First, Plastigage accuracy is not as bad as some pros would have you believe. Testing this for yourself is easy. All you need is two machine parallels and two 0.002-inch feeler gauges. Just place the two feeler gauges side-by-side on one of the parallels and place a strip of the Plastigage between the feelers. Next, place the other parallel on top and squeeze the pair in a press or vice. When you measure, the now-spread Plastigage will have a reading that is really close to the 0.002 inch that it should read. The not-so-good news is that when applied to a curved bearing and journal, things are not quite that close. Generally, the results are within about +/-0.0002 inch (i.e., 2 ten-thousandths of an inch). Maybe this is not perfect, but it is good enough for most of us if the bearings are about middle limit. Now we come to the best part of using Plastigage. If the bearing being measured is out of tolerance, it will be obvious. If the bearing clearance is wrong, especially if it is on the tight side, it will instantly show up, thus preventing serious engine damage.

Now we know how to measure bearing clearance, but how much of it should we have? For most V-8s, a good working figure is 0.002 inch (2 thousandths) for the rod journals and 0.0025 inch (211/42 thousandths) for the mains. Going up half a thousandth on this is no big disaster. In fact, I have used as much as 0.004 inch (4 thousandths) on the mains when it has been a case of "use the crank or don't race." If you are building an engine that has good components, then these nominal figures can drop by half a thousandth (0.0005 inch). If you are building for a small-engined four-cylinder class, the clearances can also stand to be about half a thousandth (0.0005 inch) less than V-8 clearances.

The amount of crank-to-bearing clearance used also influences the weight of oil needed. The closer the clearances, the lighter (thinner) the oil needs to be. This is good news if you are reducing windage and crankcase scavenging losses are a priority.

Conclusions We have seen the advantage gained from coated aero cranks with reduced MOI in wet-sump engines, but there isn't necessarily a direct carryover to dry-sump engines pulling a lot of crankcase vacuum. The more vacuum pulled on the crankcase, the greater the tendency for oil to drop out of suspension. Sure, coated aero cranks are still an advantage for dry-sump engines, but not necessarily by such a margin. One direct carryover from wet sump to dry is the reduction in MOI. This is good, regardless of what type of engine you are running.

Scat 331/44-inch Stroke Crank Test Stock Square-Face Counterweights vs. Aero Counterweights.
RPM	TQ1	HP1	TQ2	HP2	TQ diff.	HP diff.
3,500	422.3	281.4	422.7	281.7	0.4	0.3
3,750	441.0	314.9	441.4	315.2	0.4	0.3
4,000	450.3	343.0	451.0	343.5	0.7	0.5
4,250	452.1	365.8	453.2	366.7	1.1	0.9
4,500	451.9	387.2	453.1	388.2	1.2	1.0
4,750	447.7	404.9	449.9	406.9	2.2	2.0
5,000	442.8	421.6	445.2	423.8	2.4	2.2
5,250	434.1	433.9	437.0	436.8	2.9	2.9
5,500	426.3	446.4	429.6	449.9	3.3	3.5
5,750	419.9	459.7	424.2	464.4	4.3	4.7
6,000	403.8	461.3	408.6	466.8	4.8	5.5
6,250	388.8	462.7	394.2	469.1	5.4	6.4
6,500	364.6	451.2	370.6	458.7	6.0	7.5
6,750	341.2	438.5	347.5	446.6	6.3	8.1
7,000	312.6	416.6	319.5	425.8	6.9	9.2
7,250	286.4	395.4	293.6	405.3	7.2	9.9
Figure 1: Shown here are the results of some very carefully run dyno tests. These numbers are the average of a substantial number of runs, with the best and worst of each discarded. By using this technique, the effects of the scatter of 2 or 3 lb-ft on each dyno run can be minimized. As the results indicate, there is a trend for the aero crank to show (as expected) a bigger increase with increasing rpm.

RPM	TQ1	HP1	TQ2	HP2	TQ diff.	HP diff.
3,750	408.0	291.3	408.3	291.5	0.3	0.2
4,000	426.3	324.7	426.8	325.1	0.5	0.4
4,250	438.8	355.1	440.0	356.1	1.2	1.0
4,500	463.7	397.3	463.4	397.0	-0.3	-0.3
4,750	469.0	424.2	469.0	424.2	0.0	0.0
5,000	460.9	438.8	461.5	439.4	0.6	0.6
5,250	486.7	486.5	488.5	488.3	1.8	1.8
5,500	478.2	500.8	481.3	504.0	3.1	3.2
5,750	470.5	515.1	473.4	518.3	2.9	3.2
6,000	463.3	529.3	466.6	533.1	3.3	3.8
6,250	449.3	534.7	452.5	538.5	3.2	3.8
6,500	443.6	549.0	447.8	554.2	4.2	5.2
6,750	435.5	559.7	439.7	565.1	4.2	5.4
7,000	423.3	564.2	427.7	570.0	4.4	5.8
7,250	408.1	563.4	413.0	570.1	4.9	6.7
7,500	390.8	558.1	396.4	566.1	5.6	8.0
Figure 2: Using the same test procedure as per Figure 1, these results were obtained from a fairly high-output, flat-tappet cammed, 383-inch small-block Chevy engine. The coatings appeared to be worth a reasonable amount of power in this wet-sump test engine, but not until engine speed had exceeded about 5,000 rpm.

Strengthen cast iron crankshaft - shot peening

2008-03-24T07:31:00.000-07:00

Shot peening is a cold working process in which the surface of a part is bombarded with small spherical media called shot. Each piece of shot striking the material acts as a tiny peening hammer, imparting to the surface a small indentation or dimple. In order for the dimple to be created, the surface fibres of the material must be yielded in tension. Below the surface, the fibres try to restore the surface to its original shape, thereby producing below the dimple, a hemisphere of cold-worked material highly stressed in compression. Overlapping dimples develop an even layer of metal in residual compressive stress. It is well known that cracks will not initiate or propagate in a compressively stressed zone. Since nearly all fatigue and stress corrosion failures originate at the surface of a part, compressive stresses induced by shot peening provide considerable increases in part life. The maximum compressive residual stress produced at or under the surface of a part by shot peening is at least as great as half the yield strength of the material being peened. Many materials will also increase in surface hardness due to the cold working effect of shot peening.
Benefits obtained by shot peening are the result of the effect of the compressive stress and the cold working induced. Compressive stresses are beneficial in increasing resistance to fatigue failures, corrosion fatigue, stress corrosion cracking, hydrogen assisted cracking, fretting, galling and erosion caused by cavitation. Benefits obtained due to cold working include work hardening, intergranular corrosion resistance, surface texturing, closing of porosity and testing the bond of coatings. Both compressive stresses and cold working effects are used in the application of shot peening in forming metal parts.

Today, Shot Peening involves bombarding a material with small spherical media called shot. Each piece of shot is the modern day version of the hammer/ stone used in the past. As the Shot Peening is performed, the atoms on the surface of the metal become crowded and try to restore the metal's original shape by pushing outward. This pulls, towards the surface, the atoms in the deeper layers, which resist the outward pull, thereby creating internal tensile stress that keeps the part in equilibrium with the compressive stress on the surface. The tensile stresses, resulting from Shot Peening, deep in the part are not as problematic as tensile stresses on the surface because cracks are less likely to start on the interior..

Is it wise to send campro crankshaft for this kind of surface treatment ? All is about cost effective or not . Going to check price for this kind of service. Will update at here once got the answer from the service body

Bolt on turbo part II

2008-03-22T21:11:00.000-07:00

Part II will talk more about PCV . Got a friend of mine who is a tuner as well . He is complaining other workshop who just know to bolt on turbo but don't know to do proper PCV system . For NA engine , some car maker did had PCV system with valve but some will don't PVC system will valve. What is PCV valve ? Why it so important for bolt on turbo ?

Positive Crankcase Ventilation System (PCV)

The positive crankcase ventilation system exists to relieve positive air pressure from the crankcase. Pressure in the crankcase is created by piston ring blow by and by the up and down motion of the pistons (just as the piston seals the top of the combustion chamber it seals the bottom of the cylinder, pulling air in on the compression and exhaust stroke, pushing air on the intake and power stroke). In order to relieve this pressure, a vacuum pressure sucks the pressure out of the crankcase through the PCV system. If the pressure is not vented piston ring and piston ring land damage can occur from the rings being jostled around as the piston is drawn down towards the

crankcase, fighting against the pressure. In a turbo application this system must be modified or it will not work. Before figuring out how to modify the system it is a good idea to see how the stock system works. Below is a diagram of the stock PCV system:

As you can see the system begins in the intake pipe where air enters a hose that is attached to a barbed fitting on the valve cover. It is important to realize that the fitting on the valve cover is the PCV system inlet, air goes into the valve cover here. The air flows down through the head and into the crankcase. Once in the crankcase the air will pick up oil vapor from the oil being slung around at high velocity by the rotating assembly. The air then flows through the 'breather chamber' which is the black box you see on the back of the block under the intake manifold. The breather chamber has baffling in it that separates out some of the oil vapor and allows it to drain back into the crankcase. A hose connects the breather chamber to the PCV valve. The PCV valve is a one way valve that is open when a vacuum pressure is applied to the top of the valve. The PCV valve is connected to the intake manifold with a hose. The intake manifold exerts a vacuum pressure on the entire system. The PCV system is a closed vacuum circuit with pressure being exerted on one end and vacuum

on the other. This allows any positive pressure in the crankcase to be vented.

The problem when a turbocharger is added is that the intake pipe and intake manifold become pressurized. If the fitting on the valve cover is still connected to the pressurized intake pipe it will pressurize the crankcase too. At the same time, the PCV valve will close when pressure is exerted on the top half of the valve, sealing the crankcase. If no modifications are made to the system a pressurized and sealed crankcase will occur when the boost kicks in, this is the worst possible time to have a sealed and pressurized crankcase.

Above is an example for PCV system . For Cam tak pro ( CAMPRO ) , No valve available . Proton uses to have the driver side breather hole into extreme small size , so the air won't go too fast and effect idling speed stability . Once bolt on turbo , PCV valve needed at driver size breather . This valve will block all air flow if no vacuum ( Negative pressure ) present or positive pressure present . Another place is petrol tank ventilation valve . Campro got a petrol tank ventilation valve plug at throttle body . This valve uses to work all time once engine running . So pcv valve also needed there , to prevent boost leak to petrol tank . This has been practiced when i had installed e-turbo last time .

Story about Crankshaft

2008-03-22T01:52:00.000-07:00

LAW of LONG ARM - By scatcrank

They say that the heart of the engine is the camshaft, since it is one of the key components that dictates the
engine’s power level, power band, idle quality, and other characteristics. If the cam is the heart, then the crankshaft is the
spine. The crankshaft also dictates power and powerband, but in a much more ambivalent way (through its stroke which, along
with the bore size, dictates the engine’s cubic-inch displacement). The crank is what transfers the up and down reciprocating
movement of the piston and rod into the rotating motion required to drive the transmission. It carries the weight of all eight rods
and pistons, and must deal with the shock loads of the combustion process. A stock crank does this fine...in a stock engine.
But when power levels start to climb, that stock crank will eventually give under the tremendous loads imposed upon it.
Aftermarket crankshafts are hugely popular in the Mustang world, since they are required for stroker kits and are usually
necessary when an engine goes from bolt-on status to real power. But not all aftermarket cranks are created equal. There are
different materials, different manufacturing processes, and different ways to prep a crank. One of the most respected crankshaft
manufacturers is Scat Enterprises, in Redondo Beach, California. Scat has been in business for 35 years, and builds more than
15,000 crankshafts per year. Some of their customers include NHRA Top Fuel, Indycar, and Winston Cup teams, and they also
build the cranks sold by Ford Racing Performance Parts in its 347, 393 and 514 stroker kits, among others. You would be
shocked to learn how many aftermarket stroker kits use Scat cranks and rods.
Scat makes everything from inexpensive cast cranks, to forgings, to the ultimate gotta-have-it custom billet-steel piece that
will withstand more power than you can build in a small-block Ford. We wanted to see what went into building a custom crankshaft,
so we spent a day at Scat’s 42,000 square-foot facility to follow along as a billet crank is created, from the heavy chunk
of steel to the finished beauty. We also chatted with Scat’s owner, Tom Lieb, on the different crank types and got some killer
information on the subject.

Materials
You’ve heard of a crankshaft referred to as a casting, a forging, or a billet, but what does that mean, what are the
differences between them, and what is the strength comparison? Basically, a cast crank is made by pouring molten iron into a
sand mold, letting it cool, than pulling it out and machining it. This is the easiest and least expensive way to make a crank, and
that’s why the majority of stock cranks are castings. They are strong enough for most stock applications, and will run forever in a
daily driver. But bolt a blower or nitrous system on the engine, and start making some power, and a stock cast crank is living on
borrowed time. Scat has a line of cast cranks, the 9000 Series, that are available in several different strokes and are stronger
than stock. Lieb told us that the tensile strength of a stock cast crank is 95,000 pounds, whereas the 9000 Series cast crank
is rated at 105,000 pounds.
A forged crankshaft is made by taking a big piece of iron and forcing it into roughly the correct shape for a crankshaft.
This obviously requires mammoth machines, which dramatically drives up the cost of manufacturing. The advantage of a forging
over a cast crank is strength. The material used for a forging is generally better to begin with, and by moving the metal instead
of melting it, the grain structure of a forging is better. Pushing the metal around does not break the grain structure, it just
stretches it into a different shape (think Play-Doh), and that promotes greater strength. Among forgings, there are several
different materials used to make cranks. A production forging is made of 1045 carbon steel, which has a tensile strength of
105,000 pounds (the same as Scat’s 9000 Series cast crank). The next step up the ladder is 5140 steel, which has a strength
of 115,000 pounds, and 4130 with 120,000 pounds tensile strength. The strongest forging is 4340, which has a strength of
140,000 pounds. The biggest differences in these types of metal is the grain structure, (which is what holds the material
together), the heat-treating process, and the actual mixture of the elements. For instance, 4130 and 4340 steel have more
chrome and nickel in them, which increases strength.
Crankshaft durability is measured in tensile strength and fatigue strength. Tensile strength is measure when a 1-inch-round
piece of the metal is put into a fixture that tries to pull it apart. The force required to break the metal sample is the tensile
strength. Fatigue strength can be best described by thinking of a piece of tin. You can bend it back and forth for aw h i l e , but it
will eventually break. The crank goes through the same type of bending and twisting, from cylinder pressures, v i b r a t i o n , b l o c k
d i s t o rt i o n , h i g h - rpm clutch launches and stuff like that. As tensile strength goes up, so does fatigue strength.

TURBO MANIFOLD FOR MY CAM TAK PRO

2008-03-21T03:33:00.001-07:00

IT is the shape of my turbo manifold later . This is called log type manifold . It is a good and cheap turbo manifold that can get if compare to turbular type turbo manifold . Since running low boost , this type of manifold is good to use .

2008-03-20T03:23:00.000-07:00

I almost forget to introduce my electrical supercharger or E-turbo that has installed for year . Since i going to bolt on turbo , i going to let go this stuff at Rm1800 (included installation ) . Prefer campro owner as buyer , if other car model also welcome but need to spend extra for piping . Welcome to drop message at shoutbox if you have inquiry . Above is the images of the machine .

Campro crankshaft broken issue

2008-03-19T22:05:00.000-07:00

This is very hot issue now . This case has involved 6 cars total . Their campro reported can not start and then change crank sensor , but still fail to start . Once the oil sump removed , metal pieces everywhere inside the oil sump . Look at the crankshaft , found crack mark at the 4th crank weight balancer which near to flywheel . Some of them encounter even serious , whole crankshaft break into 2 pieces . Pls have a look at picture above .

Got a friend of mine who is working as mechanic in northern garage penang . Once he has seen the picture , he says he has handle numerous this type of case . Mostly he got turbo and NA machine that facing this problem . He says the impact of energy shock is the main root cause to twist the crankshaft until break apart . Normally will happen on those drag machine , because initial load is very huge impact for crankshaft take during launching time . Especially launching with maintain certain rpm , This will create very great impact and very high tendency to break the crankshaft . It might hurt the crankshaft and slowly crack day by day .

As i know those reported crankshaft broken campro machines are dragster . Hope that i am wrong about this :P :P . If normal driving , chance to break the crankshaft seem like very minimum . Anyway this case still need to blame proton doesn't use better material for the crankshaft . A 110 whp campro engine is far away to compare with turbo engine can easily to break their crankshaft . Unfortunately a 110 whp campro engine can break the crankshaft . :(
If you want to buy campro or campro cps for drag activity , you better stay away from do that . Use it as normal vehicle from A to B is fine .

Turbo a NA engine

2008-03-19T04:17:00.000-07:00

To build a turbo engine is cost for car maker . A turbo car uses to sell double the price of a NA ( natural aspirated ) car . NA engine is far more easy to build and maintain , but the output power and performance way far poor than a turbo engine .
Especially for youngster and some others whom performance minder , NA engine output power is under their expectation . Even they got the honda v-tec B16A type R , they still want to bolt on turbo . They can't find any excitement or wooh from that honda popular v-tec or screaming engine . Nowadays market full with engine which build to last and fuel save . Everybody struggling with petrol price hike . Everybody looking for fuel save , but then they also demand good performance from fuel save machine which is NA engine . That is never happen . In the end , they can't stand with poor performance of their so called " fuel save " machine . They looking for workshop that able to help them to boost some power of their " fuel save " machine . Come to workshop , mechanic will alway say you want immediate power and bolt on turbo is the choice . When the mechanic quote them price of turbo kit , they will faint with the figure . For bolt on turbo , easily touch RM7000 . Woh that figure is really make them to die heart and never think about immediate power again . In fact they never think , they have spent on those small upgrade nearly touch rm5000 - rm6000 in many months ago . They still can't get the expected performance . In the end , they give up to modify their " fuel save" machine and let it be .

If you want your fuel save machine or NA engine to boost more power , pls save more to bolt on a turbo . The price that you pay is far more worth it than you spend on those look cheap and not really improve performance . Although offered price of a turbo kit is 4 figure , it can satisfy you .

Next we will take about how to turbocharge a natural aspirated engine .

Turbo my proton 1.6liter " cam tak pro " [ CAMPRO]

2008-03-18T05:08:00.000-07:00

Below is my turbocharger unit ....

1) start to fabricate log type turbo manifold . After the project go smooth will switch to turbular type header . Estimate rm600
2) Source for oil feed fitting and oil drain fitting Rm100 . Steel braided hose as well .. Expensive item ... 2 hoses cost Rm200
3) If want to run water cooling , need another 2 steel braided hose Rm150 again
4) Will use evo silent blow off ( free )
5) all boost piping and intercooler ( will mount behind right side bumper ) estimated Rm500
6) run 2 x 250 cc extra injectors . rm100
7) fuel line for extra injector rm100
8) need to add one more unichip turbo module rm450
9) silicone hose reducer rm60 , 4 x 2.5" rm250 . clip x 10 .... rm50
10) down pipe rm60
11) unichip Rm2199
12) Gt2510 turbo Rm1800 ( new ) .

initial target boost 0.4 bars If everything goes well , will go 0.5 bars with double metal gasket.

all is money .. pengsan

Will update stage by stage .. start with turbo manifold first . Turbo manifold will complete by next month .